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Routes in Bug Barn Dance Wall

Bosko Loves Barbed Wire S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cambrian Grey S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Darkness at Seven S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Desperate Land S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dreamin' of Reamin' S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lacy Doggie Panties S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Looking For A Legacy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Necrobeastiality S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Raid S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Redneck Genocide S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Squid Orgy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Suicidal Yet Depraved S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 105 ft
FA: Phil & Andy Renolds
Page Views: 797 total, 6/month
Shared By: Christian "crisco" Burrell on Sep 1, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Both this route and Necrobeastiality, are two of the absolute best .11b's in the whole canyon! One thought provoking part. Bring it!

Protection

Nine bolts, chain anchors.

Location

Fifth bolted line from the left, directly right of the two shorter routes on the wall.

Photos

Bad Sock Puppet
  5.11c
Bad Sock Puppet  
  5.11c
Crimp Fest! This route runs smooth for the first few bolts then all of a sudden you hit the crux hard. Very tiny feet (although the rock has great friction)and blind throws to small crimps through crux. Take a small break on a ledge before pumping through another hard spot to chains. I can see how MOST of the route is 5.11b or easier, but the concensus, from the four of us who climbed it, was that the crux was more like a 5.11c. Of course it could have just been the fact that my feet were cooking inside my shoes on the 150 degree rock. Aug 23, 2008