SPECIAL NOTICE: due to nesting condors the Machete Ridge area may be closed, from Dos Equis / Corona on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original. Check the NPS and Friends of Pinnacles websites for further information.
Description
A couple of thin cruxes (10c, 11a) are protected with bolts. Small gear useful between bolts.
Location
Shares start with Ordeal. Move right before the roof.
Protection
Wires, TCU's, a couple of cams up to 2". Five protection bolts.
[Hide Comment] This one of my favorite Pinnacles routes. The right amount of trad gear, committing sustained moves through the crux, and a not so great job on the bolts. This was one of Mike Carville's first routes at the Park. It was rap bolted, and he has a looong reach. Kelly Rich and I had started to lead it, but bailed when we got to what is now the 2nd bolt. Mike swooped us that very week. Both he and Kelly had a great eye for a line! Mike has given me permission to fix/ retro bolt the route, just have not gotten around to it yet. Soon come.
Oct 2, 2019
[Hide Comment] Super fun route! The 10d part has fun and interesting moves. Well protected with good clipping stances if you find them. I recommend the alternate bolted start, 5.10 4 bolts. Only gear needed is in the crack after it diverges from Ordeal. It protected well with #2 and #1 and could also take small gear in pin scars above. The anchor is way far back so bring a long cordellete.
Jan 17, 2021
[Hide Comment] This route would be really sweet if it was rebolted. The anchor bolts are waaay back on top. Slings required. Would be nice if someone put a new anchor on the face or at least close to the lip... (the year is 2021 people!!)
Feb 18, 2021
Santa Cruz + Silver Meadow, Ca
Austin, TX
The anchor is way far back so bring a long cordellete. Jan 17, 2021
People's Republic of West M…