Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Buffalo Soldier

5.11a, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 23 votes
FA: Mike Carville, 1987
California > Central Coast > Pinnacles NP > E Side > Discovery Wall
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

A couple of thin cruxes (10c, 11a) are protected with bolts. Small gear useful between bolts.

Location

Shares start with Ordeal. Move right before the roof.

Protection

Wires, TCU's, a couple of cams up to 2". Five protection bolts.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tommy D
Santa Cruz + Silver Meadow, Ca
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] This one of my favorite Pinnacles routes. The right amount of trad gear, committing sustained moves through the crux, and a not so great job on the bolts. This was one of Mike Carville's first routes at the Park. It was rap bolted, and he has a looong reach. Kelly Rich and I had started to lead it, but bailed when we got to what is now the 2nd bolt. Mike swooped us that very week. Both he and Kelly had a great eye for a line! Mike has given me permission to fix/ retro bolt the route, just have not gotten around to it yet. Soon come. Oct 2, 2019
Peter B
Austin, TX
 
[Hide Comment] Super fun route! The 10d part has fun and interesting moves. Well protected with good clipping stances if you find them. I recommend the alternate bolted start, 5.10 4 bolts. Only gear needed is in the crack after it diverges from Ordeal. It protected well with #2 and #1 and could also take small gear in pin scars above.
The anchor is way far back so bring a long cordellete. Jan 17, 2021
Undocked Piggies
People's Republic of West M…
 
[Hide Comment] This route would be really sweet if it was rebolted. The anchor bolts are waaay back on top. Slings required. Would be nice if someone put a new anchor on the face or at least close to the lip... (the year is 2021 people!!) Feb 18, 2021
[Hide Comment] The anchor was replaced in November 2016 and is shared with two other routes. Feb 19, 2021