[Hide Comment] This was a surprisingly fun climb. Definitely not as sustained as the Verdict but possibly a bit more technical? Plus there is a nice rest where you can totally recover before pulling the 11a crux at the top. Very well protected by bolts except for a 15 foot gap between the second and third bolt on easy (5.6/7) terrain that can be protected with a bomber yellow #2 BD. Although the climbing is easy here, I recommended bringing the cam because the rock is a bit loose (only place on the route that I found suspect). Feb 4, 2013

[Hide Comment] I liked the climb quite a bit. It seemed harder to me than e.g. Foreplay. I would rate it at 11b/c, am surprised at the 11a rating. Either stuff broek off or I was getting really tired at the end of the day! Both cruxes seemed pretty technical and "sequency".

Edited: I must have been tired the first time I climbed this. It seemed much easier now, about 11a. Well protected. I counted 10 bolts, not 11 as description says. Apr 13, 2015

[Hide Comment] Need me some beta cuz I found the crux section to be really friggin hard. ive climbed Verdict and Robots of Dawn (both 11a) and i found this routes crux to significantly harder Jun 11, 2018

[Hide Comment] I found the 10c crux move at the first bulge almost equally as difficult as the tightly bolted 11a move near the top. Maybe it's the rock or maybe people bail halfway up, but the upper section rock was much crisper.

Enough bolt at the cruxes. Two mussy hooks at the intermediate lower-off point. Sep 24, 2018

[Hide Comment] Not sure about the 11a rating, we always called it 11b. And the first crux was always the crux. It's Pinnacles, and having done the FA, then repeated it at least 30 times, I think the lower crux has gotten harder. Certainly 11b when compared to so many other routes in Bear Gulch. Surprisingly fun and interesting, and loose on the first half. Oh, and there are no 4 or 5 star routes at the Pinns- that's the rule! 3 stars is as good as it gets. :)
I added the lower-off point in the late 90's. Seemed appropriate and it avoids conflicts with Portent. Sep 30, 2019

[Hide Comment] The crux move at the first bulge gave us a hard time. Our guidebook didn't show the chains after the 11.a section, but they are there. Nov 22, 2019

[Hide Comment] My partner and I both found the first crux harder than the second so maybe something did break there. We also both found it harder than the Verdict. Super fun climb though. Also the #2 BD cam goes between the 1st and 2nd bolt not the 2nd and 3rd as stated above. Apr 4, 2021