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Charity Case

5.9, Sport,  Avg: 2.1 from 85 votes
FA: Chris Smith 11/00
New Hampshire > Rumney > Main Cliff Right

Description

A fun way to gain the routes on the upper ledge and a nice route on its own as well.

Start on a few tricky moves involving a few holds that aren't as clean as some might like. After this you get in to some clean rock with weird but fun moves for 15 feet or so and on to easier rock to the 2 bolt anchor.

From this belay you can climb the 5.11s above, Charity Toad which is an easy traverse right to gain White Toads last pitch, or you can head left to Wendell's Route and a few others.

Location

30 feet or so left of the corner of White Toad look for a cleaned off section of rock (but not too clean as there is dirt and moss on both sides) that opens up to be nice and clean up higher.

Protection

8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jakob enjoying charity case on a warm day in early march...
[Hide Photo] Jakob enjoying charity case on a warm day in early march...
Climbers on Charity Case
[Hide Photo] Climbers on Charity Case
Does anybody know which route this is? We thought it was Rainbow but were unsure. It felt harder than 5.6 and doesn't concur with the photos of that route. All input is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
[Hide Photo] Does anybody know which route this is? We thought it was Rainbow but were unsure. It felt harder than 5.6 and doesn't concur with the photos of that route. All input is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Matt finally out of the vegetation and onto the clean rock
[Hide Photo] Matt finally out of the vegetation and onto the clean rock
jared and chloe
[Hide Photo] jared and chloe
jared finishing up the slab
[Hide Photo] jared finishing up the slab
The somewhat vegitated start of Charity Case.
[Hide Photo] The somewhat vegitated start of Charity Case.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
[Hide Comment] Worthy route in its own right but we used it today to do Charity Toad which is GREAT! This one was a bit wet but we're excited to get back on it when it's completely dry. We found you can make it harder than it really is if you don't find some jugs which seemed hidden. Mar 23, 2013
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
 
[Hide Comment] J Meagher: at the top of this one, traverse right past two bolts to an anchor and nice belay ledge. Finish up the 3rd pitch of White Toad (5.8) -- it's a real nice continuation. Nov 15, 2013
[Hide Comment] Cool. Got to try that next time. I've only gone straight up and to the left. Nov 15, 2013
Ming
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Crux moves are way easier than Gold Digger, which is rated at 5.8+, so how could it be 5.9? Sailed right past it the first time no problem. Got back on it again recently and it's fun but pretty casual. If you are a number chaser this could be a great first 5.9. Can anyone think of a softer 5.9 at Rumney? Jul 1, 2015
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
[Hide Comment] Ming, for what it's worth the thin crux of Gold Digger definitely feels harder than Charity Case for me as well. I wouldn't scoff at someone calling Charity a 5.8. As for a softer 5.9, I've only been on it once but I remember feeling that Sea Breeze up at the Crow's Nest was a stretch to call it a 5.9. Jul 1, 2015
[Hide Comment] Gold Digger is way harder than 5.8+ in my opinion. CC is a one-move 5.9 to me. The rest is fun and good quality. A give-me 5.9 at Rumney? No such thing!
BITD, Night Crawler was considered intro 5.9 but it is sharp and can be painful to climb on.
For me, Left El Diego, Rock du Jour Direct, and Smokestack are standouts at the .9 grade but I am sure I have omitted about other worthy ones. Jul 3, 2015
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
[Hide Comment] Gold digger is no way harder than 8+, says the Gunks climber Apr 7, 2016