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Routes in West Wall

Beer Quester S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
EIS S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fear Fester S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Great Pacific Garbage Patch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jack in the Wood S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lost Letter, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Meconium 23 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Raindrops on Lichen S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rainmaker S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spoils of War S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Turning Formosa S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Your Little Sister S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 995 total, 8/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Aug 30, 2007 with updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

A back bending start through a powerful bulge leads to a less than ideal rest; relax and clip the bolt. Suspicious holds and hidden jugs lead you up and slightly right to a great rest before the anchors. Shake out and fire the desperate finish!

If you climb left of the bolt line you'll put together enough to make this route .11b
If you get lured right of the bolt line and finish through the black streaked bulge, you've earned yourself a solid .12a

Location

Follow the trail from the road up through the corridor passing three routes on the hikers left. Spoils of War is the first route after the small gap and the first route after Your Little Sister. Directly right is the Unnamed .11c

Protection

Four or five draws to a shared anchor.

Photos

KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
  5.11b
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
  5.11b
The spoils begin at the bulge with some tricky pumpy headwork to deal with. It was an awesome climb. There is a rest before you start the crux so look it over good and crank it out. Jun 17, 2008