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Overripe Fresh-Squeezed California Females

5.11b, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 9 votes
FA: Cameron Burns and Paul Fehlau, 1990
New Mexico > Los Alamos & Wh… > White Rock > Overlook > North/W side

Description

The crux is off the deck on thin crimps up an overhang to some nice rounded pockets on a vertical face/arete section to a sweet exit. If you step over left at the bottom (crux), the route probably goes at 5.10b.

Location

This is the first bolted line to the right of Overlard.

Protection

4 bolts and 2 fixed slings to a 2 bolt chained anchor.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Scott Beguin
Santa Fe, NM
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] Someone has removed and not replaced the fixed slings, so be careful because it is now an R rated lead. Aug 30, 2007
[Hide Comment] Just looking through my notes: The bolts for this were placed on lead...I'd returned to NM after doing the California trad thing....(no flipping idea about the tie offs, though). Cam Apr 18, 2008
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
 
[Hide Comment] Tried this one for the first time today. I remember seeing fixed slings - or rather a fixed sling - at one point, but they were gone today. Didn't feel all that uncomfortable though - the second bolt is a bit high and if you were to peel while clipping you'd deck. Other than that, it's 4 moderately spaced bolts, which means bigger air if you catch it, but the falls are clean. Feb 22, 2009
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] The 2 slings are currently fixed on this climb (5/09); with these in place, it's very well-protected.
Update 2/2014: These slings are a bit ratty; and the lower one appears partially torn and I personally wouldn't want to fully trust it as ground fall is a possibility if it were to fail. Maybe they're ok, but it is probably best if they're replaced. As Jason mentions above, a climber relatively solid at the grade might feel okay with the situation. May 19, 2009
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Update 5/2020: The lower perma-sling was gone entirely when I climbed this today. The 2nd sling is appears new as of 2020.

With the assumption that fixed threaded webbing was part of the original protection for this climb (as shown in all guides), in this case, my "vote" for a longer-term fix would be to replace the 2nd and maybe the 1st slings with bolt(s). The 1st sling was about 3' below b2 if I remember right (but I looked for and didn't see where it would be threaded through). Falling there might be dicey, as b1 is pretty low. This climb is reasonably good and worth having dependable fixed gear. Mar 11, 2019