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Routes in Obscure Buffalo Creek Rocks

A Side Crack V0- 4-
B Side Crack V1- 5-
Buffalo Creek Spire T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Buffalo Creek Spire South Face A0
Classic Arete V3-4 6A+
Fear of Slabs V0- 4-
One Last Fix T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shotgun Express T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Smoke a Fatty T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c V2 5+
Unknown V-easy 3
deGaulle's Nose aid route T C1+
deGaulle's Nose free route T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Aid, 75 ft
FA: Dave Bell and Byron Nelson
Page Views: 1,224 total, 10/month
Shared By: Allen Hill on Aug 30, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This route is a classic study in Dave Bellism.
Start up and left on the face that faces the road. Nail across the slab and wrap your way under the "nose" and continue traversing till you reach a pod. From here climb up a very thin crack. This will go free but will be a scary hard lead. Check it out.

Location

Descend off the back.

Protection

RPs, knife blades, a hook or two.
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
  C1
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
  C1
I solo aided this yesterday and it was pretty fun, it goes clean just incase anyone wondered about that so no need for nails or a hammer.

The gear for the most part I felt pretty good about.
If you want no piece by piece beta read no further.

The gear on the first part I mostly used stoppers untill I was near the end, most were directional so you had to be careful how you weighted them or you could place another nut pulling the opposite direction so it was multi-directional and tie them together so you didn't have to worry at all.

I did it with a single set of stoppers and didn't use them for pro untill the thin crack at the end to the top. I didn't know I had my off set aliens untill I was done so I didn't use them either but they made cleaning the begining section easier once I realized I had them. I could imagine this might be c1 even with the right rack.

Anyway there is some cam placments once you near the end of the first section getting to the corner a red tcu and a .75 camalot did the trick, then a #3 camalot (rounding the corner under the lip to a #4(left for pro) then another #3 (left something equivilent to a #3-3.5 for gear non camalot variety I think it was a grey flex cam? it's my partners)and saved my #3 for later to another .75 to a blue alien to a yellow lowe ball then another #3 and then a #5 then some more stoppers up the thin crack to the top to another #3 and the #5 again twice more. 2 bolts on top which makes back cleaning easier if your solo.

I replaced the old slings that were on top but the only webbing I had was a little bit short (although probly safe it would be ideal if it were replaced with something a little longer by the next ascentionist) there is a rap ring and a rapid link also on the slings.

Have fun Jun 8, 2008