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Big Wall Greg's Chicken Shack

5.6, Sport,  Avg: 2.9 from 217 votes
FA: Jim Thurmond 1989
Illinois > Jackson Falls > A. N Canyon > A. Mr. Jimmy

Description

Relatively low angle route with good hands and feet.

Location

The leftmost route on the main face of the Mr. Jimmy boulder. It will be the first route you see on the Mr. Jimmy boulder if approaching from the dog walk.

It is on the right side of the arete (Piss Ant is the route on the left). Immediately to its right are "Spiders from Mars 10b" and then "Venom 10a."

Protection

7 QD + Anchors. Please use the wave bolts (the thinner diameter bolts).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Mason on Big wall Greg's chicken shack
[Hide Photo] Mason on Big wall Greg's chicken shack
Chicken Shack 5.6
[Hide Photo] Chicken Shack 5.6
Climbing Chicken Shack
[Hide Photo] Climbing Chicken Shack
Nice route, but feels tougher than a 5.6
[Hide Photo] Nice route, but feels tougher than a 5.6
PC: Shao Hao. My first ever outdoor climb was on this route and I fell in love. A great route, pretty solid if you're comfortable with 5.6 or more.
[Hide Photo] PC: Shao Hao. My first ever outdoor climb was on this route and I fell in love. A great route, pretty solid if you're comfortable with 5.6 or more.
Caysha wanting to finish up a with a few last pitches in the dark at the end of a perfect day of fall climbing
[Hide Photo] Caysha wanting to finish up a with a few last pitches in the dark at the end of a perfect day of fall climbing
I would argue this is a little tougher than a 5.6. Especially considering the Sophomore at 5.9 and Mod Squad at 5.8 that I climbed on either side of this. But leading this felt amazing!
[Hide Photo] I would argue this is a little tougher than a 5.6. Especially considering the Sophomore at 5.9 and Mod Squad at 5.8 that I climbed on either side of this. But leading this felt amazing!
Great pastry route. If you want to practice footwork, this should be your next stop. Watch out for solid rope drag over the first ledge. The belayer can sit back even on the stump (you'll see it when you're there) to pull the rope off the wall.
[Hide Photo] Great pastry route. If you want to practice footwork, this should be your next stop. Watch out for solid rope drag over the first ledge. The belayer can sit back even on the stump (you'll see it wh…
John on Greg's Chicken Shack
[Hide Photo] John on Greg's Chicken Shack
no hands ledge
[Hide Photo] no hands ledge

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jason Crowley
Saint Peters, MO
 
[Hide Comment] 6 QD's and an anchor, unless I missed one on the way up.

Stay left towards the top and use the edge. The middle is all slab and can be done.. but only if you want to work harder. Nov 26, 2012
Kate Mittendorf
Nashville, TN
[Hide Comment] This is a must-do warm up for any one who has never been to Jackson before, or a great first lead for a new leader. Very relaxed intro to slab climbing Sep 27, 2013
Mike Fuys
Lisle, IL
 
[Hide Comment] My first lead in the area-- great warm-up route. Stay to the left at last bolt for great feet.
First lead in the area.
Oct 8, 2014
Billy Arthur
St. Louis
 
[Hide Comment] youtu.be/_4uBOaoTJbs taken 5/2018. Really enjoyed his route! Aug 31, 2018