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Biomechanoid

5.12a, Sport, 65 ft (20 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 8 votes
FA: Peter Gram and Nils Gram
New Mexico > Los Alamos & Wh… > White Rock > Overlook > North/W side

Description

This often overlooked and unknown arete is perhaps the best route at Overlook, and it never sees traffic. Start on chossy slab to the first bolt of Lubeme then continue straight up the overhanging arete and crank like there is no tomorrow up some technical arete moves until you reach the anchors. This route has the feel of the aretes at Below The Old New Place, so it is a little out of character for the north side. Continuous at the grade.

Location

1st bolted line to the left of Putterman Gully Jump.

Protection

7 bolts to an upgraded anchor [February 2020] with lowering hardware.

Used to be a stupid 2 bolt anchor--bolts are three feet apart, on either side of the arete,--with no lowering hardware on them of any sort. Extend the draws on this and then retrieve draws from the top.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Erik Hanschen
Lost Almost, NM
[Hide Comment] This route is definitely under appreciated- I disagree it's perhaps the best Overlook route, but it does have excellent movement throughout. Get on it! Jul 24, 2019
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] I cleaned up choss low on the route, added a new anchor with lowering hardware and rebolted the entire route in February 2020. All the hangers were either old, thin SMC hangers or homemade. The second bolt had a unique aluminum homemade hanger stamped with the initials "DP" and "SD". I've asked the usual suspects, Luke and Cam, about it but they don't recognize the initials. Anyone know?
Hardware from
Feb 23, 2020
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] The stamped "DP" and "SD" initials are on at least some of the other hangers on Lubme as well. Mar 17, 2021