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Unknown 5.9

5.10a, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.1 from 57 votes
FA: Duane Anderton
Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > American Fork C… > Hard Rock
Warning Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area DetailsDrop down

Description

A steep start climbs through four bolts of great pockets and jugs before the angle slabs out and the climbing becomes more nondescript. Rock is reminiscent of black limestone of the upper part of Escape Buttress. Pockets abound and the climbing is fun, yet challenging for the start.

Location

Located on the Hard Rock West wall, this is the second route to the left of Stump. Approach as to Hard Rock Wall, when you get to the top of the slope, head left to new Hard Rock West area. Continue west past the terraced area to newer climbs.

Protection

9 Bolts and the chains.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Here's the line. Tough start.
[Hide Photo] Here's the line. Tough start.
Walt on the steep part of the route.
[Hide Photo] Walt on the steep part of the route.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Christian "crisco" Burrell
PG, Utah
[Hide Comment] Did this on Labor day 07'. Still some loose holds here and there but mostly ok. I would give it only one out of three stars. I missed several jugs on the way up that I spotted on the way down. This is probably why I felt that this was harder than 5.9. Sep 3, 2007
Andrew Seegmiller
Orem UT
 
[Hide Comment] Very fun rock., didnt have a problem with any loose holds when i was up their climbing. this was my first lead! i felt like the crux was the small bulge about half way up. i think its between the fourth and fifth bolt. not really a crux, more just of a hidden jug that is a little difficult to find. its one the right side of the bulge for those having any problems with this climb. Aug 19, 2009
BJB
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] The route is totally clean at this point. The first 4 bolts of climbing are pretty steep and a little difficult. The last 30 or so feet could have been done without but the beginning is pretty fun. Mar 18, 2012
Aaron Shields
Lehi, UT
 
[Hide Comment] A hold broke off this morning that was the size of a dinner plate just below the bulge. Didn't seem to change the climb that much, though. Aug 2, 2013
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] This is harder than the route to the left and harder than 5.9 through the first 4 bolts, very easy after that. Mar 10, 2014
BackAtItAgain
[Hide Comment] The hold that broke makes the move past the 4th bolt much harder than 5.9 - perhaps if you are 6' tall it doesn't matter - but to a shorter person this broken hold bumps this up to solid 10. Aug 24, 2014
Digby
  5.10b/c
[Hide Comment] I found the moves past the 4th bolt to be a bit smaller and as hard or harder than any of the moves on First Born, which is rated 5.10c; but then, it could be I was just so pumped from climbing First Born that made this climb feel like 5.10b/c. Sep 1, 2014
jacob m s
Provo, Utah
[Hide Comment] Fun route, but the hold I used to clip the first bolt is coming loose. It held fine today, but next spring I might suspect it. Sep 19, 2015