Type: Trad, Alpine, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Marty Steiger, 7/92
Page Views: 5,549 total · 39/month
Shared By: Jordan Ramey on Aug 27, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details


The Boltway begins from the top of Hermaphrodite flake. 5.8 slab climbing that is never to difficult and the bolts always appear just when you want one. Although some of the bolts are very suspect, there are plenty of them. Great views and exposure!


The route starts from the top of Hermaphrodite Flake, to the right of the anchors. Follow the bolt line pretty much straight up to the stance 3 bolt belay. From here continue up past 2 new beefy metolius bolts (5.8 crux) then to the left a bit to gain the micro crack. Follow this up until you see a bolt on your left. Follow these last two bolts up to easier ground (4th then 3rd class).

Descend the route by heading up and left towards a big tree by the headwall. Most downclimb the whole dome, but there are a couple raps you can do to make things easier / safer.

Generally, hug the headwall and keep downclimbing the 3rd and 4th class slabs.


First pitch off Hermaphrodite Flake: 9 bolts to 3 bolt anchor w/ rap rings.
Second Pitch: 4 bolts total and micro to 3" cams. Natural belay wherever is convenient.
Too many bolts. Aug 17, 2010
New Paltz
Optimistic   New Paltz
Anyone been up the 10a finish mentioned in Reid? If so, is it as generously bolted as the rest of the route? Aug 13, 2011
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
Regarding, "Kudos to the FA for understanding the value in having a safe lead for mere mortals who want to enjoy a serene setting and some Tuolumne face climbing, at the same time."

Boltway is a retrobolt of Eunuch. So, I guess you can't thank the first ascentionist. As I recall, there is one old rusty bolt on Boltway and that is the lone bolt from the original Eunuch. The same guy who retrobolted Eunuch bolted a line next to West Country that was promptly chopped.

As far as the 10 pitch, it's well protected as I recall although perhaps not as generously bolted. Aug 15, 2011
sibylle Hechtel
sibylle Hechtel   Colorado
I lead the 10 finish a few years ago, and the bolt was near my waist on the crux move. The crux I thought was very well bolted - and then after that, head to the crack, with gear placements. Jun 24, 2013
aaron hope
Walnut Creek, CA
aaron hope   Walnut Creek, CA
Just so there is no confusion, Eunuch goes right, Boltway goes up. They do share beginnings, but if you're looking for runnout slab then you can climb anywhere above the Flake. Jul 1, 2013
John Clark
San Francisco, CA
John Clark   San Francisco, CA
Bit overbolted by Tuolumne standards, but a good way to get your feet wet on slab and practice more standard bolt spacing if you skip every other bolt. Sep 17, 2018