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Routes in Stately Pleasure Dome

Arch Rival T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Angel T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boltway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cross Reference T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Daddy's Little Girl T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Death Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dixie Peach T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Eunuch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Footnote T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Get Slick T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Great White Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Hermaphrodite Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mosquito T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Shadow Nose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sweet Nothings T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Table of Contents T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Turning Japanese T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Way We Were, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
West Country T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Marty Steiger, 7/92
Page Views: 4,887 total · 38/month
Shared By: Jordan Ramey on Aug 27, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15 Details

Description

The Boltway begins from the top of Hermaphrodite flake. 5.8 slab climbing that is never to difficult and the bolts always appear just when you want one. Although some of the bolts are very suspect, there are plenty of them. Great views and exposure!

Location

The route starts from the top of Hermaphrodite Flake, to the right of the anchors. Follow the bolt line pretty much straight up to the stance 3 bolt belay. From here continue up past 2 new beefy metolius bolts (5.8 crux) then to the left a bit to gain the micro crack. Follow this up until you see a bolt on your left. Follow these last two bolts up to easier ground (4th then 3rd class).

Descend the route by heading up and left towards a big tree by the headwall. Most downclimb the whole dome, but there are a couple raps you can do to make things easier / safer.

Generally, hug the headwall and keep downclimbing the 3rd and 4th class slabs.

Protection

First pitch off Hermaphrodite Flake: 9 bolts to 3 bolt anchor w/ rap rings.
Second Pitch: 4 bolts total and micro to 3" cams. Natural belay wherever is convenient.
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
Too many bolts. Aug 17, 2010
Optimistic
New Paltz
Optimistic   New Paltz
Anyone been up the 10a finish mentioned in Reid? If so, is it as generously bolted as the rest of the route? Aug 13, 2011
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Regarding, "Kudos to the FA for understanding the value in having a safe lead for mere mortals who want to enjoy a serene setting and some Tuolumne face climbing, at the same time."

Boltway is a retrobolt of Eunuch. So, I guess you can't thank the first ascentionist. As I recall, there is one old rusty bolt on Boltway and that is the lone bolt from the original Eunuch. The same guy who retrobolted Eunuch bolted a line next to West Country that was promptly chopped.

As far as the 10 pitch, it's well protected as I recall although perhaps not as generously bolted. Aug 15, 2011
sibylle Hechtel
Colorado
sibylle Hechtel   Colorado
I lead the 10 finish a few years ago, and the bolt was near my waist on the crux move. The crux I thought was very well bolted - and then after that, head to the crack, with gear placements. Jun 24, 2013
aaron hope
Walnut Creek, CA
  5.8
aaron hope   Walnut Creek, CA
  5.8
Just so there is no confusion, Eunuch goes right, Boltway goes up. They do share beginnings, but if you're looking for runnout slab then you can climb anywhere above the Flake. Jul 1, 2013
They do share beginnings but not bolts. Boltway was run over the start of the Eunuch. To do the Eunuch, skip the first 4 bolts, clip the fifth new shiny 3/8" bolt and head right. Only the one bolt on the pitch. Aug 16, 2016

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