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Routes in Stately Pleasure Dome
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Arch Rival T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Black Angel T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Boltway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cross Reference T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Daddy's Little Girl T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Death Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Dixie Peach T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Eunuch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Footnote T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Get Slick T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Great White Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Hermaphrodite Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mosquito T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Shadow Nose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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South Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Sweet Nothings T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Table of Contents T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Turning Japanese T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Way We Were, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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West Country T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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White Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 300 ft, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Marty Steiger, 7/92 |
| Page Views: | 4,887 total · 38/month |
| Shared By: | Jordan Ramey on Aug 27, 2007 |
| Admins: | M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15
Details
March 1- July 15
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure pagenps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive.
Learn more about special status bird species in Yosemite National Park.
Glacier Point Apron is open to climbing, but the Park Service's website does not recommend climbing there ";due to recent and ongoing rockfall."
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure pagenps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive.
Learn more about special status bird species in Yosemite National Park.
Glacier Point Apron is open to climbing, but the Park Service's website does not recommend climbing there ";due to recent and ongoing rockfall."
Description
The Boltway begins from the top of Hermaphrodite flake. 5.8 slab climbing that is never to difficult and the bolts always appear just when you want one. Although some of the bolts are very suspect, there are plenty of them. Great views and exposure!
Location
The route starts from the top of Hermaphrodite Flake, to the right of the anchors. Follow the bolt line pretty much straight up to the stance 3 bolt belay. From here continue up past 2 new beefy metolius bolts (5.8 crux) then to the left a bit to gain the micro crack. Follow this up until you see a bolt on your left. Follow these last two bolts up to easier ground (4th then 3rd class).
Descend the route by heading up and left towards a big tree by the headwall. Most downclimb the whole dome, but there are a couple raps you can do to make things easier / safer.
Generally, hug the headwall and keep downclimbing the 3rd and 4th class slabs.
Descend the route by heading up and left towards a big tree by the headwall. Most downclimb the whole dome, but there are a couple raps you can do to make things easier / safer.
Generally, hug the headwall and keep downclimbing the 3rd and 4th class slabs.
New Paltz
Glenwood Springs, CO
Boltway is a retrobolt of Eunuch. So, I guess you can't thank the first ascentionist. As I recall, there is one old rusty bolt on Boltway and that is the lone bolt from the original Eunuch. The same guy who retrobolted Eunuch bolted a line next to West Country that was promptly chopped.
As far as the 10 pitch, it's well protected as I recall although perhaps not as generously bolted. Aug 15, 2011
Colorado
Walnut Creek, CA