Mountain Project Logo

Routes in (06) The Dihedral Wall

Baba Louie S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Classic Jam Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Eggs and Ham S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lucky Boy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Quickdraw McGraw S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smoked Salmon T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Stick Fort S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tina's Rig S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 50 ft, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,187 total, 10/month
Shared By: Eddy Daly on Aug 27, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


14 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The Classic Jam Crack is located just north (climber's left) of Lucky Boy, Baba Louie, and Quickdraw McGraw on the Dihedral Wall. A very regular crack varying from solid hands to finger stacks and ringlocks. One of the best jamming routes in the Albuquerque area.
Bernard Moret, in his guide, rates this as "mostly 5.8 with a harder start". I disagree. The start, while overcoming a bulge and jamming on just-over-vertical rock, is one of the most straight forward sections with beautiful hands. Above the bulge one enters a concavity and must overcome another bulge with the crack being more in the ringlock arena. I rate it a solid 5.9 route.

Location

Palomas Peak on the north end of The Dihedral Wall.

Protection

Pro in the two inch to one inch array. I used the following:
2@ #2 camalots
2@ #1 camalots
2@ #.75 camalots
2@ #.5 camalots

(I totally overprotected the route getting a handle on jamming again. This route protects very well.)

Photos

Miguel D
SLC
5.9+
Miguel D   SLC
5.9+
I used three #.75, one #1 and one #2. But you could easily replace the #2 with another #1 or #.75 (C4s). Protects very well, I also thought the start was relatively easy. There's a small section about 2/3 up where tge crack disappears and you must jam below chest height or really reach high. Not too bad though. And you can always use the flake on the left if you're struggling higher up, though it felt like cheating to me May 27, 2015
Ben Burnett
Colorado
  5.9
Ben Burnett   Colorado
  5.9
Great route for practicing jams of various sizes and for placing cams. Very safe for a newer leader [as long as they can get up 5.9 crack]. The crux will likely be hand size dependent. Sep 7, 2013
Nick Manke
Edgewood, NM
 
Nick Manke   Edgewood, NM
 
I would agree that the crack is sustained 5.9. Getting over the first bulge is a little tricky, I found it best to cam your left hand in deep and step into the crack. The face isn't too much help on most of the climb but there are some areas where you can catch a nice break with your feet. The key to the second bulge is pulling into a lieback while you're below it. Great climb- just wish it was longer. Nov 3, 2008