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J-boat

5.6, Trad,  Avg: 0.9 from 10 votes
FA: mark sprague 2000
New Hampshire > Rumney > Crow's Nest
Warning Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area DetailsDrop down

Description

Not a wonderfully memorable climb but one you could do as you get used to trad climbing. I find that if you can place gear well at Rumney, you can place it almost anywhere. It can be pretty funky at times but if you take the time and practice you will find what you are looking for and learn a lot.

Basically the crux is a short section at the bottom. If done directly I feel like it might be a bit stiff, but it goes pretty easy if you start to the left and traverse right to the ramp. The ramp is easy slab. Take the time to find the gear and you will have a good time, and don't forget to enjoy the view.

At the top of the ramp is an anchor from which you can lower off above Sea Sick.

Location

The cracked ramp heading up and right on the left end of the cliff. Tops out above and lowers off of Sea Sick 5.11c

Protection

Normal trad rack does the trick. Lower from anchors. The gear can be tricky and not always reliable, so this route may not be good for inexperienced leaders.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

After my first trad lead! Now, I think I am really addicted :)
[Hide Photo] After my first trad lead! Now, I think I am really addicted :)
Lucas starting up J-Boat
[Hide Photo] Lucas starting up J-Boat
My first trad lead! Very memorable! Dirty top!
[Hide Photo] My first trad lead! Very memorable! Dirty top!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

MattWallace
Center Harbor, NH
  5.6
[Hide Comment] I think if cleaned this could be a very good climb, but in its dirty state its a one star climb for sure Oct 27, 2012
Derek Ehrnschwender
Cambridge, MA
[Hide Comment] Had to do a little gardening but I thought the good gear was plentiful. May 12, 2019
M Sprague
New England
 
[Hide Comment] I wouldn't recommend this to a beginner leader. The gear is not that great, sometimes in suspect rock or run out. It is probably filthy too. Jul 23, 2019