[Hide Comment] i would love to get a description for the rest of the route... Aug 25, 2007

[Hide Comment] The guidebook says you go up the 5.7 bombay chimney at the back of the alcove then up a 5.6 crack to easier ground. Can't vouch for this since I haven't done it though. It appeared that the majority of climbers on the route bailed after P3. Aug 25, 2007

[Hide Comment] Union Jack is definitely not as classic as Vertigo, but it's worth doing nonetheless. I thought it was a bit generic, compared to other Cannon climbs. Mar 24, 2009

[Hide Comment] From the top of the 4th class after the third pitch, I climbed underneath the overhanging chimney. Started on the left side of the face, clipped a fix pin, and traversed right on good but sketchy holds, with a nasty fall potention (R?). Then up into the chimney which wasn't as hard as it looked.

From the top of the chimney you can go right up a short 3"-4" crack and you will shortly be at a bolted rap station. Or...you can do what we did and find a way more or less straight up, pulling 5.8 handcracks and get to another ledge with a bail anchor and rap from there. I may have been off route here...Meh. May 26, 2009

[Hide Comment] The fourth pitch is 5.9 (5.7R) according to the guidebook; it seemed the crux pitch to me. I climbed past the fixed pin, backed it up, then straight up (delicate and a bit scary; a marginal 00 Metolius might have held?) before traversing right. Goodhue's lower traverse might be better, but sets up a hard swing.... And then a cool move to get into the bombay chimney. P5 has a nice layback ~5.7, and then we rapped.

Double 60s gets you to the ground from the top of P3 if you angle a bit south. Jun 20, 2013

[Hide Comment] A good route, well worth doing. Pitch 4 was wet when I got to it so I opted for the lower traverse as well. It went without too much trouble but I wouldn't have wanted to fall. It should be noted that after traversing one has to climb up through a series of loose blocks. I protected beneath a large flake that seemed solid only to have the whole thing shift when I later pulled on the top of it. Aug 19, 2013

[Hide Comment] Beware, the "anchor" at the top of P2 is a bit sketchy for rapping — old cordelette attached to 2 pitons (one was backed up with a small nut) that moved up and down a little during my partner's bounce test. Jun 27, 2016

[Hide Comment] I would agree Brianna completely about the anchors at the top of pitch two. Before revisiting the route this year, I haven't been on it in over ten years. The crux pitch moves are fantastic and I also enjoy the upper pitches. It has a true Cannon feel to the route. This year we decided to bail after the second pitch. I didn't feel that safe rappelling off them let alone going into pitch 3 with the hollow flake and questionable gear off the belay. Sep 7, 2016

[Hide Comment] On pitch 3, before you reach the larger left-facing flake, you first encounter an odd flake/column feature that you can see through by looking behind it. It's something of an hourglass if looked at straight on, with good holds on the sides and on the top. It looks sketchy, and it is. My follower pulled out on it, and heard a big crack. The feature will likely fall if you pull out hard on it, which would really suck as the leader. I used the feature delicately and mantled onto it and set feet high (rock is good in compression). I think you can also gently reach out right to join the flake earlier on. Aug 27, 2017

[Hide Comment] Ben Winteringham died in Morocco a few years back .... a rappelling accident Feb 9, 2018

[Hide Comment] The second pitch offers superb climbing up vertical-to-overhanging solid granite. It would be classic anywhere. If only it were longer! As noted by others, be VERY cautious of the hollow, disconnected hourglass-shaped flake you have to climb at the start of pitch 3 (it's just right of the belay). It will break off sometime, which will make starting this pitch an adventure. Pitch 4 is currently the crux of the route both psychologically and physically. It is likely that this pitch has been damaged by rockfall in recent years, plus it is made up of bad crumbly rock with minimal protection. The "fixed" piton came out in my hand yesterday - a great reminder to always test fixed gear, especially on Cannon! While following the pitch, my partner broke a hold at the crux and swung into the wet corner below the bomb-bay chimney. The chimney itself is great fun and very awkward. As others have mentioned, all of the blocks in the chimney are suspect, so be careful. We belayed just above the chimney and then did one more pitch up the crack system above and then trending right. There are many variations. What we chose went at about 5.8. This leads to a good sloping ledge and a fixed anchor where Union Jack and Vertigo come together one pitch higher than the top of the Half Moon Crack. May 22, 2018

[Hide Comment] Yesterday, we removed the ancient pin and stopper anchor on top of pitch two and replaced it with two ring bolts. The lost arrow broke with a single hit with the hammer, and the knifeblade fell out with a few taps. The stoppers were in terrible shape with rusted, frayed cables. We also replaced the 3rd pitch bolt anchor (with it's weatherworn sling & rings) with two ring anchors. In addition, we have added a bolt on solid rock near the disconnected hourglass shaped flake at the start of pitch three. I would like to take this moment to discuss this action. I started climbing on Cannon Cliff in 1972 and have a few first ascents there. I know many of the first ascentionists and we have had numerous discussions over the past year regarding anchor and bolt replacement and safety improvement. We have reached a concensus that we would like to improve anchor safety by replacing existing pin/fixed nut anchors with ring anchors and that we would like to replace old bolts and, in some cases, old pins with new bolts. And lastly we agree that, due to recent (post 1970's) rock fall as well as know loose rock conditons, we should add (a few) bolts where there is a concensus among us that a bolt would significantly improve safety. We have all immensely enjoyed our relationship with Cannon cliff and would hate to see a terrible accident due to gear failure (of our 40 to 50 year old gear) or due to foreseeable danger. Please respect the work that we do and please do not remove it or tamper with it. Steve Chardon & many others. Aug 29, 2019

[Hide Comment] Linking pitches 1 and 2 is the way to go! Just make sure to extend your pieces with double lengths before going left to the finger crack and/or back-cleaning. Pitch 3 (as listed in the description) is a bit hollow, so be mindful of what you grab onto.

The moves on Pitch 4 before the chimney are definitely the crux. I only got a .2 (perhaps a nut could have been better?) before the hardest moves, which was a bit unfortunate but otherwise the pitch protects better than what it looks like from below. I thought the sketchiest part of the climb was this pitch because there are a couple of holds that look good but are completely detached. Even once you get out of the chimney, although the rock quality improves, you (and your partner/s and everybody who's climbing below you) are not home free, stay attentive. After the chimney you trend right until you reach the chains of the Half Moon Crack.

We decided to keep climbing and top out. I enjoyed the rest of the climb but this might not be fun for everybody. From here it becomes more of a scramble/bushwhack with a few sections of climbing in between (up to 5.7, perhaps 5.8?). Far less pro, waaaaay more vegetation, and some uninspiring rock at some points. You definitely shouldn't fall up there. For us, it was 4 almost full-length pitche from the top of the Half Moon to the top. There's not much need for beta. Just go up following the path of least resistance/best rock quality.

This climb is definitely worth doing! Jul 15, 2024