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Skinny Len Crimps

5.11a, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 111 votes
FA: Scott Keller, Jake Anderegg 1994
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Ferguson Canyon > Cathedral

Description

Fun route that initially wanders a bit right of the bolt line. Cool horizontal features typical of Ferguson's.

Protection

Draws.

Location

Bolt line rising from the creek immediately right of the crack Mission Impossible on the left side of the north face of the Cathedral.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Eric crimping on the good stuff.
[Hide Photo] Eric crimping on the good stuff.
Kip Henrie making the third clip on Skinny Len Crimps.
[Hide Photo] Kip Henrie making the third clip on Skinny Len Crimps.
heading for 2nd bolt
[Hide Photo] heading for 2nd bolt
Fun crux move
[Hide Photo] Fun crux move
Nice Crimps
[Hide Photo] Nice Crimps
new route beta per the comment below
[Hide Photo] new route beta per the comment below

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] This was put up by Scott Keller and Jake Anderegg (1994-ish?). Contrary to the guidebook, it goes straight up to the chains, as opposed to moving left into the corner. Originally, this was a runout but I added 1 bolt here in 2002. Sep 27, 2007
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Fun route. Taking the path of least resistance it is fairly graded. I went slightly right between the first and second bolts. To go direct would be very hard and carry dangerous deck potential. Go straight up to triple chain anchors. Aug 24, 2008
grego
SLC, Utah
[Hide Comment] One of my favorites. The route goes a bit right of the first two bolts. Aug 7, 2009
triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Good fun must-do route. I also stayed slightly right between the first couple bolts.. Which seemed like the natural way. But if you want to get to the third clip, you'll have to bust out onto the crimpy face at some point. I wouldn't of wanted to of blown that third clip either... Sep 28, 2009
Riddler
Sammamish, WA
 
[Hide Comment] A surprising amount of variety for such a short route. Jul 21, 2010
Sam Miller
salt lake city, UT
[Hide Comment] This is a pretty good route. I did twice. Once, using all available holds and wandering a bit to the right (fairly .11a). Then I did it straight up, using only the crimps directly below the bolts (no jugs off to the side). That made it significantly harder (maybe .12a). Jul 15, 2012
Erik S. Gillis
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Fun, I agree with the 11a rating if you go to the right. I agree with Sam if you go straight up it is probably 12a. However, the crux is protected by the second bolt and while there may be decking potential clipping the third it eases up after the crux... All in all to go straight up is probably 12a PG13, but i thought it was way more fun than going right. Jul 23, 2013
Dan Berger
SLC, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Fun route, crux is definitely clipping and passing the 3rd bolt. After that it eases up significantly. Like everyone else, I stayed right at the first 2 bolts. Jul 8, 2018
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] The 2nd bolt is at your feet when you clip the 3rd and you want another bolt in between? Sounds like plastic envy and a z-clipping wish. You're not decking if you blow the 3rd clip, it's safe as is. Sport route = bolt protected, what do you suggest it be called in this case? Sep 6, 2019
[Hide Comment] Fun movement and engagement, one of my favorites at the grade in Ferguson. Debatable about hitting the ground clipping 3rd bolt, attentive belay not debatable. Quicklinks added to anchor Aug 2020. Sep 23, 2020
[Hide Comment] Scott and I put this route up in the summer of 94 (I left for an lds mission in Nov that year). When we put this route up, the tree that used to sit right at the base of the route was lush and green, and we couldn't see if there were anchors already in the area to use. So we climbed just to the left to access the vertical wall above. As I recall, the route was gritty with sharp crystals, most of which have been polished now. I remember having both hands on a chest high down pull between the second and third bolt with a good stance. You had to reach to get the third bolt clip. Fairly easy after that clip. Thirty years ago. Wow. Enjoy. May 2, 2024