Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Oracle

5.11c, Trad, 75 ft (23 m),  Avg: 2.2 from 18 votes
FA: FFA: Ruckmans, 1983
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Ferguson Canyon > Cathedral

Description

Tricky crux start protected by wireds or small TCUs.

Location

Obvious slanting crack rising from the creekbed on the N-facing aspect of the Cathedral.

Protection

Standard rack with small stuff for the start.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

beta intensive crux
[Hide Photo] beta intensive crux
Nice rest after the roof
[Hide Photo] Nice rest after the roof

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mark Evans
Cottonwood Heights, UT
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] I personally felt like this was harder than the grade. The cruxy start felt more like 11c or d. I also felt like the climb to the left of this one was harder than it's grade. (Aftershock, 10c)

Although this could be because I'm only 5'6", but the people I was with also felt they were both a bit hard. Jun 13, 2008
Ben Folsom
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Good route, pretty much a boulder problem start to easier (but interesting) climbing for the remainder of the route. Jul 26, 2008
Spencer Weiler
Grand Junction
  5.11c/d
[Hide Comment] 11a my arse! bring a bouldering pad for the start cause you aren't going to get gear in till 15 feet up when you can finally get to a stance. The start is devoid of feet and gear is tricky to place and blocks your best finger locks. Punch it to the roundy jug out left and have a .3 handy. Jul 18, 2013
Derrick W
Golden, CO
  5.11b/c
[Hide Comment] This hard for 11a, with the crux right off the deck and no real chance to plug gear until you're through it. After pulling halfway through the crux and jumping off twice, I slotted a nut using a stick to protect the moves off the deck. Jul 3, 2014
Charlie S
NV
 
[Hide Comment] Sandbag!

Minus points for the hiking gumbies who will walk right through your stuff as you attempt to make upward progress. May 29, 2017