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Routes in Flying Buttress

Flying Buttress Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hound's Tooth T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Lichen It T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mosaic Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Penny Arcade T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Storm Watch T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Allen Sanderson & Dana Tangren 1990 (using aid on the tooth) FFA Chris Gmitro & Jeff Lundeen June 2016
Page Views: 139 total, 1/month
Shared By: Allen Sanderson on Aug 22, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Start 25' left of the Flying Buttress Route in a right facing corner that has a very thin seam. Climb the corner utilizing chicken heads to a pointed flake (the Hound's Tooth). The first ascent used aid to move past the flake, it has now been freed at 5.11 c/d. Once above the flake continue up past a block to a belay ledge.

The second pitch continues up a 5.8 corner to the top. One can descend from the top of the dead snag above Lichen It.

Location

Start 25' left of the Flying Buttress Route

Protection

Nuts and cams - including brass nuts.

Photos

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JeffL
Salt Lake City
 
JeffL   Salt Lake City
 
This route has amazing free climbing! Doubles green c3 and below, small nuts for the 10d dihedral. Moving past the "hounds tooth" is the crux. Standard rack for the crux move and 2nd pitch. The rock is really good! A small amount of exfoliation similar to what you'll see anywhere in the cirque. If this route see's a few more ascents, it will clean up nicely!

The block at the top of the first pitch is detached. It's huge, and doesn't seem likely to move, just use caution.

We'll try to snap a pic and post up, This route is one of the best I've ever done in the cirque! Jul 10, 2016