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Routes in Mussypotamia Left

Chick Dead, Dog Killed It T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Don't Be Late T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Jungle T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lower Echelon Paranoia T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shipley Drive S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Tricky Goldy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Russ Walling and MIck Ryan (1st TD, 2&3 GU, 7/1997)
Page Views: 1,951 total · 15/month
Shared By: Russ Walling on Aug 21, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

First pitch: From the anchor stance go straight up until the bolts start heading right. Follow the stellar patina plates up the face. Move right on the ramp to the Tricky Goldy anchors to continue to the top.

Second pitch: Walk the plank on the grainy ramp until you can clip a bolt. Continue up good rock over a few roof or two on some giant huecos. Could be a bit exposed and run out, but that's why you came up here right? Move right after going over the last roof to an anchor on the slab.

Third pitch: One bolt on the slab protects a single move of 5.6 slab. Saw a guy who has done a 5.13 take tension right here. Continue up the black water streak to an anchor.
To get off, head down a slight chimney to climbers left and find the bolted rap anchors. 3 double rope rappels.

Location

Pitch one follows the best rock up and then right on spectacular plates. You can go straight up to an anchor if you are only doing the first pitch. To continue onto the summit, follow the ramp to the right and use the Tricky Goldy anchors as the end of the first pitch.

Protection

Bolts and bolt anchors.

Photos

Nicholas Orton
Saranac lake
Nicholas Orton   Saranac lake
The access ramp that leads to the first pitch of this climb is dirty and crumbly! the rope that helps you get up that section broke and needs replacing! The approach is tough in early spring due to snow that doesn't get any sun. Awesome Face climbing though!!! Apr 14, 2017
Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.9 PG13
Neil Rankin   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.9 PG13
Legend has it that Russ Walling hung it out there on the first ascent, climbing and drilling with a power drill in tow. The patina pitch is a classic and is worth the hike alone. Apr 1, 2013
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
The name for this route was inspired by Xavier, Mick Ryans very young son. The low down: Marty Lewis the guidebook guy (Maximuspress.com) came over to Micks house to get some Bishop area information. Marty has a wild thing of a pooch named Blue.... Blue was left in the car.... Mick had a pair of Silky Chickens that were Xaviers pets. Well, as guidebook info was being passed, Blue got out a half down window and killed one of the the Silky Chickens.... Blue is like that.... anyway, Mick arranged and had a small funeral for the Silky (since he was a practice Vicar in Lango, England). Xavier for weeks afterward would just keep saying in his limited 3 year old vocabulary, to anyone who would listen, "Chick dead...dog killed it". And there you have it..... Aug 22, 2007

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