Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Jeff Lowe and Tim Kudo, 1970s (?)|
|Page Views:||5,322 total · 36/month|
|Shared By:||Tristan Perry on Aug 21, 2007|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
The first pitch deals with loose rock and poor protection...it might be considered "R" as potential to hurt yourself definitely exists. The crux is delicate face climbing, well above fixed gear. My partner winged off on this pitch when both handholds he was holding broke, sending him for a 20 footer (onto a 1/4" bolt!). As I caught the fall, fist-sized chunks of rock ripped through the foliage around me. Yikes! As he is a bold fellow, he combined the first sketchy pitch with the next pitch, which was more elegant and even harder, climbing past overhanging rock on big holds with thin protection.
The third (or second) pitch is beautiful and hard. Most of the gear consists of fixed pitons with the eye about 2'' away from the rock. Very steep, it works its way up thin cracks on an arete with awkward positions and pumpy sections, until finally a belay appears in the dihedral.
The next pitch heads out right, past a quarter inch bolt, and past some more fixed gear that is out of view. Our team aborted when my partner flew past the belay, ripping out a #1 knifeblade and was caught...again by a 1/4" bolt...the only thing between him and the belay (which was spinning 1/4" bolt, backed by a Black Alien and RPs, along with that bomber sideways-pounded nut). Yes, we were scared.
I'd like to continue with the description, but I can't. I can only guess that the next pitch was steep and hard, on good rock, protected by more knifeblades.
And supposedly the last pitch is only 5.8...on SHALE!
If you try this route, be strong...I'd like to think someone could hang in there and replace that knifeblade that my partner pulled and restore the integrity of the route. I do hope that whatever happens, people don't go up there and replace all the sketchy pro with conveniently placed bomber bolts...because then this masterpiece of climbing would be irrevocably changed...dumbed down, if you will, to a semi-ordinary climb that you could go anywhere to experience.
This is a climb I'm proud to say I've bailed from.