Avg: 2 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft (24 m)|
|FA:||Kirpatrick & Landry|
|Page Views:||291 total · 2/month|
|Shared By:||david goldstein on Aug 20, 2007|
|Admins:||Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Start just right of Hose Monster and head up to the right corner which has a bolt at its top. Interesting moves with just adequate pro (hard to place if short) gets you to the top of the corner. Clip the bolt then combine stemming and underclinging to exit the corner, around a roof (crux). Stand up on a good ledge, perhaps place a token, wishful thinking RP and contemplate both the non-trivial move you will have to make to get to the next placement and the fact that the last reliable gear is the bolt, under the roof and perhaps 10' below the move. Either go for the move (delicate one finger side pull with good feet) if you're sure you won't blow it or achieve gear by force of will (see note below). After you make the move, there is a good .5 Camalot and #2 Camalot placement. From here, make another not easy move to reach the first bolt of the direct finish (Fossil Finish, 11C (right)). Clip the bolt and either finish w/ FF, well protected but a big sandbag, or traverse straight left for 15' -- 5.9, lichen, no gear -- and finish w/ Hose Monster.
The regular (Hose Monster) finish is much easier but much more committing and takes you top the top where there is no anchor. The Fossil Finish, is cleaner and takes you to chains but seemed unreasonably difficult for 11c.
GEAR BETA WARNING: If you are 6'+ tall you can probably place a solid small nut before making the scary move. At 5'7", I was able to place this piece by chaining three wires together and flopping a #1 Rock in. Unfortunately, (long story), the nut is still in place, handy for those tall enough to clip it, but an even bigger hose job for those who aren't, as it is currently occupying the jiggery-pokery placement. If for some reason, you just have to lead this pitch, you might want to do Hose Monster first and clean the nut or clip a (long) draw to it before heading up Trilobite.