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Routes in Cowboy Poetry

Alaskan Tanning Booth S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ambush in the Night S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Buffalo Soldier S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Burnin' Daylight S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cowboy Gibberish S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cowboy Poetry S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cowboys Don't Shoot Straight TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Devil Wears Latex, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Drove Hard and Put Up Quick S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ella's Pony Ride S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Even Cowgirls Get the Blues S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Honed on the Range S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
How The West Was Won S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Princess and the Playmate S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
SideWinder S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Slapping Leather S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sleeping Thunder S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Take Your Hat Off S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Testosterone Alfresco S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: John Gogas
Page Views: 108 total, 1/month
Shared By: richard magill on Aug 20, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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Description

Excellent line with a burly distinct crux.

Start out in the seam and then move right on a slab. The climbing up to the 4th bolt is probably easy 5.10.

Once you are done with this part, this leaves you under an overhanging bulge with a no-hands rest.

Then you do a 4 or 5 move sequence through a cruxy small pocket to a deep pocket. From there it is a cakewalk to the anchors.

Not a one-move-wonder, but the sequence through the crux (8 feet) is definitely the main attraction - the rest of the route is fairly easy

Location

The trail deposits you at the crag right at a pine tree. Right of the pine tree is
(1) Princess and the Playmate (10b)
(2) an 11a that starts in a seam then goes left
(3) Slapping Leather, which starts in the same seam (but has its own bolts) and goes right

Protection

6 clips to anchors at 60 feet

Photos

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