Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Rich Thompson, Jack Carpenter, Doug Davis
Page Views: 111 total · 1/month
Shared By: Brad Schierer on Aug 19, 2007
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

6 Opinions

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This climb is one of the rare splitters on Mt. Lemmon. It is on the rock just downhill from The Reuben Hair Shift. The crack is unmistakable.

Start just below the crack and pull over a bulge (the crux) with pro above you. Jam the sweet hand crack, protecting as you feel the need, until you hit the wide section about 15-20 feet from the top. Run it out from here on easy ground to a two bolt belay.

This route is mostly casual once you pull the steep move at the bottom, but you'll want solid jamming skills in a couple of places.

This route, as well as a few other moderate cracks on this face are fun to do if you're in the area.


Rap the route. It might also be better to bring your second up from the top on this route.


Standard rack to #4 Camalot.


Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
This on the "Rock of No Name" formation. The anchor is a pair of regular bolts (i.e. non-rappel) with 4 lengths of webbing tied through them, a rap ring and a quicklink. I'm not sure how long that webbing has been there but I guess the chance of all 4 breaking at the same time is minimal. Still, I felt safer rapping down the backside, where after about 8 feet you're in scrambling territory and after another 12-15 feet you're on the ground. Throwing the rope and downclimbing the back is also an option. There's a couple of jumps that could get ugly though if gear on your harness catches on anything. Feb 23, 2008
Eric Sophiea  
Someone added quick-links & carabiners at the two bolt anchor, making it easy now to clip and lower. Apr 14, 2014