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Routes in Main Rock

Access Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Handcrack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Major Groove T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Minor Groove T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rappel Route TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
South Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
When Free Climbers Wore Hammers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 89 total, 1/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Aug 19, 2007
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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A short, easy way to access the summit and anchors on Main Rock. Unfortunately, the route is almost as exciting as the name.

From the right end of the grassy ledge atop the buttress, place a cam in a good crack up and to the right and start up the face. Climb the flake up and left until you hit a vertical crack. Follow the easy crack to the top. Rappel Route is just to the right, and there are anchors on the summit to the left.


Scramble up to the top of the buttress in front of Main Rock's east face, and move to the right side of the grassy ledge. Look for a series of vertical groves in the rock - Access Route starts just to the right of those groves.


Light rack, medium sized gear. You can rappel from anchors on top of the summit, or from the horizontal bridge of rock above the Rappel Route.


A Stolpe
Anchorage, AK
A Stolpe   Anchorage, AK
I personally think that Major Groove is more fun as an access route to the top of Main Rock. The 5.5 lieback could be a good way to get your head together for the ubiquitous lichen and moss found on most climbs here. Sep 11, 2012