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Family Jewels
5.7,
Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m),
Avg: 2.8 from 15
votes
FA: unknown
Wisconsin
> Baraboo Range
> Devil's Lake
> E Bluff 04 - E…
> 13: Four Brothers
Description
Start from pedestal left of the formation's corner, step right around the corner to a hidden dihedral, climb the dihedral, then finish up a short, enjoyable jam crack. Crux is a couple of moves getting up dihedral.
[Hide Photo] Family Jewels can either start on Gravel Pit or on the left pedestal, depending on which guide book you use. The Mic is a 5.11a variation in Swartling. Mary's Face is a named route in Swartling and…
[Hide Photo] "Family Jewels" starts in the lower left hand corner of the pic, then step right. "Gravel Pit" goes up the prominent dihedral. "Mary's Face" starts on the face right of "Gravel Pit" "Folia…
[Hide Comment] I have found this to be an enjoyable 5.7 that looks harder than it is. If you are climbing at this level it is worth checking out.
Apr 21, 2008
[Hide Comment] Be careful on lead. The lower section has a decent runout when rounding the corner. The rest can be sewn up using small nuts or mirco cams. Overall great climb.
Sep 9, 2012
A #2 ballnut works great! for the first crux move. You can also fish in a very narrow nut, but its more work.
Starting from the left pedestal, I think "5.7" is a sandbag. If you don't see the move, you can also start from "Gravel Pit" on the right, and traverse in.
Jun 4, 2013
[Hide Comment] Maybe I was trying to stay too low, but traversing in from the left felt harder than 5.7 (and scary on lead!), but coming from the right on Gravel Pit felt honest at the grade, and was enjoyable.
Mar 9, 2015
[Hide Comment] Jewels is a good "A1" for February gear-placing practice (although I have a vague memory of using some sort of hook, and maybe a free move or two in the middle, just for spice).
Aug 17, 2015
[Hide Comment] The dihedral was worth figuring out how to get to this climb and working the bottom section! Both variations were fun once I'd had one go at the beginning section from the Gravel Pit start.
However, there are vines and brambles at the bottom of this climb on both variations. I was worried about poison ivy. If you fell off the beginning section, you might land in a bush with thorns! Doable in March right after a thaw with vegetation mostly dormant, but I wouldn't attempt this in the spring or summer in its current condition. Could be a classic if it cleans up again IMO.
Mar 9, 2025
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Madison WI
Delta, CO
A #2 ballnut works great! for the first crux move. You can also fish in a very narrow nut, but its more work.
Starting from the left pedestal, I think "5.7" is a sandbag. If you don't see the move, you can also start from "Gravel Pit" on the right, and traverse in. Jun 4, 2013
Fort Collins, CO
However, there are vines and brambles at the bottom of this climb on both variations. I was worried about poison ivy. If you fell off the beginning section, you might land in a bush with thorns! Doable in March right after a thaw with vegetation mostly dormant, but I wouldn't attempt this in the spring or summer in its current condition. Could be a classic if it cleans up again IMO. Mar 9, 2025
Delta, CO