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Routes in Four Brothers

Catalepsy T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Decadence T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Family Jewels T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Foliage T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Gravel Pit T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Zot TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 140 total, 1/month
Shared By: Paul Huebner on Aug 19, 2007
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Start from pedestal left of the formation's corner, step right around the corner to a hidden dihedral, climb the dihedral, then finish up a short, enjoyable jam crack. Crux is a couple of moves getting up dihedral.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

Jewels is a good "A1" for February gear-placing practice (although I have a vague memory of using some sort of hook, and maybe a free move or two in the middle, just for spice). Aug 17, 2015
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.7
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.7
Maybe I was trying to stay too low, but traversing in from the left felt harder than 5.7 (and scary on lead!), but coming from the right on Gravel Pit felt honest at the grade, and was enjoyable. Mar 9, 2015
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
  5.7+
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
  5.7+
Wonderfully sustained!

A #2 ballnut works great! for the first crux move. You can also fish in a very narrow nut, but its more work.

Starting from the left pedestal, I think "5.7" is a sandbag. If you don't see the move, you can also start from "Gravel Pit" on the right, and traverse in. Jun 4, 2013
Tom Lausch
Madison WI
  5.7
Tom Lausch   Madison WI
  5.7
Be careful on lead. The lower section has a decent runout when rounding the corner. The rest can be sewn up using small nuts or mirco cams. Overall great climb. Sep 9, 2012
I have found this to be an enjoyable 5.7 that looks harder than it is. If you are climbing at this level it is worth checking out. Apr 21, 2008