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Routes in Swirley Boulder

Amnesia V5 6C
Certain Other, The V11 8A
Child of the Storm V13 8B
Da Luvah V7+ 7A+
Jon's Arete V8 7B
Jon's Arete Right V9- 7C
Rat Fish Dyno V11 8A
Rose, The V7 7A+
Sit and Deliver V12 8A+
Slash V6-7 7A+
Stand & Deliver V11- 8A
Swirley Flake V1-2 5
Swirley Slab V1- 5-
Topout Problem, The V9 7C
Uncle Climax V9 7C
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,366 total, 27/month
Shared By: Tristan Perry on Aug 16, 2007
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

This problem feels impossible without the right beta. Crouch at the lowest part of the arete and trend right and up using severely sloping holds on the lip of the arete. Funky footwork and tenaciously slapping the slopers the right way are the ticket to success. An interesting mantle caps this short, but fierce beauty. Sick downclimbs are found on the opposite arete/face of the Rose.

Location

The overhanging arete on the Swirley Boulder that looks halfway doable - to the right of Child of the Storm if you're facing that problem.

Protection

Pad

Photos

Graham O.
  V7-
Graham O.  
  V7-
An awesome climb! Unlike many sloping lip traverses in P-way, this one actually has a variety of holds and movement. I think it's a little soft, but still absolutely classic. Jul 30, 2016
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V7
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V7
I thought I would add, purely for historical purposes, that I believe the full name for this problem is 'The Rose (of Confrontation)'. Oct 30, 2014
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V7
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V7
I wouldn't argue that Christian, I climbed through the slopers several times just to punt from the top. Figured the beta out for it but never sent. Have to go back and send it next weekend. :) Dec 9, 2013
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V7
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V7
I would say the mantel IS the crux. Dec 9, 2013
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
Congrats, great hard problem. Dec 9, 2013
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V7
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V7
Do not underestimate the topout, I flashed up until the mantel today... then punted trying to top out. A left heel hooks helps prevent this. Dec 8, 2013
Eric Heiden
Derry, NH
Eric Heiden   Derry, NH
Another video of the Rose:
youtube.com/watch?v=rKRP94a… Dec 26, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
nice video... i like it... good music for it... Jun 22, 2009
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
  V7
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
  V7
Video of The Rose Jun 22, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Plus it has perfect rock. Textured, but not too sharp. Nov 18, 2008
Lanky
Tired
 
Lanky   Tired
 
Great problem! Slopers, tension, heel hooks! Jul 11, 2008