Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Below the New Wave

Bullwinkle Craters S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bullwinkle Goes Ballistic S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Couch Potato S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Debbie Does CPR S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sixth Sense S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Son of Sammy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport
FA: M Sprague
Page Views: 2,066 total, 17/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Aug 16, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


110 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The beginning of this one is a bit squeezed in but contains a few fun moves that are not used otherwise. After the crux its just a walk up the super moderate slab to the chains.

Start as for Bullwinkle Craters (5.11b) for a few steep jug moves with one really cool hold. Pull the tricky move on to the slab then 5.3ish climbing brings you to the left end of the upper deck of New Wave Wall. As Mark commented, you can run this route in to Air and Pleasant Danger (5.8) for a longer climb. Use a 70m rope if you do this and plan to come all the way back to the ground.

Location

Starting on the same holds as Bullwinkle Craters head up and left out the roof.

Protection

4 bolts to anchor. If you run it in to Air and Pleasant Danger, you will have to run out some easy vegetated slab to get to the goods on that route.
Eli
Lives in a truck
 
Eli   Lives in a truck
 
The start of this route is a blast! Grab the pizza! Jun 6, 2014
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
  5.10a
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
  5.10a
The start to this climb is a ton of fun... very steep climbing on better holds than you can ask for. Apr 22, 2013
S. Neoh
  5.10a
S. Neoh  
  5.10a
The linkup with Air and Present Danger makes for a nice long moderate route. We confirmed today that a 60m rope will get you down safely to the ground from the anchors of Air and Present if you were to do the link up.
But as always, no matter what anyone says, watch the end of your rope very closely on lower. Jul 17, 2011
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
10a?? Ward has gone soft Nov 23, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.10a
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.10a
This route is listed as .10a in the new quide book Nov 23, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i think you could make it back to the ledge but remember to knot your rope... May 10, 2009
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
  5.9
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
  5.9
Wish I read the description first... now I want to run this out to Air and Pleasant Danger. :) Think I could lower to the (ledge) anchors of Bullwinkle Goes Ballistic to re-tie with a 60m rope? May 10, 2009
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
You guys are just weaik, lol :) Jun 3, 2008
BTodd
 
BTodd  
 
unless I was on the wrong route, I thought this was more difficult as well... May 26, 2008
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
  5.10a/b
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
  5.10a/b
Either I did this route completely wrong the other day, or the grade is off, but it felt a number grade harder than the description implies. Nevertheless, a fun route with great slab climbing above. Aug 16, 2007