PRINT: Rock Climb Teacher's Pet, Little Cottonwood Canyon

Teacher's Pet

5.5, Sport, TR, 100 ft (30 m),

Avg: 0 from 2 votes
FA: A long time ago
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Gate Buttress > Heaven's Gate Area

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Approach

Climb Schoolroom. Continue about 50' straight above the final pitch up a 5.5 3" crack.

Route Description

This route climbs a clean slab/face that makes for a pleasant additional pitch to Schoolroom. There are plenty of beginners who will appreciate this strongly protected 5.5 route.

History

This route has no recorded history because the vast majority of climbers never cared about this little 5.5 X route. It was given a name and bolted for beginners in Aug 2007. Rest assured it isn't the start of grid-bolting in LCC. Beginners have already said plenty of nice things about this route and are really enjoying it now.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

clayhoon

i don't agree with this route. i did this about ten years ago solo.. no point in grid bolting the whole canyon!! Oct 29, 2007

Sir Camsalot
thankgodchickenhead, Ut

ooo said "And I free soloed it 15 years ago. And plenty of folks free-soloed it before me. Give your ego a rest and let some folks enjoy climbing this."

Yeah, shame on you Clay for having an opinion that differs from the bolter of this route. Oct 30, 2007

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR

(abusive comments have been deleted from this thread)

Please refrain from using comments for character attacks. It violates rule #1 - don't be jerk.

Have something intelligent to add about the route? Then add it. But keep the junior high name calling to yourself.

Disclaimer: I have no opinion on the route in question. But I do have opinions on people abusing the route database for character attacks. Nov 2, 2007

clayhoon

There is no ego involved in a 5.5 slab.. It is just pointless.. There are plenty of killer moderates around.. I have enjoyed most of them also.. It is not cool with me to bolt routes that have history behind them!!! Such as good moderate solos that have already seen first ascents years ago!! Nov 5, 2007

Scott Gilliam
Raleigh, NC

STP, you understand correctly. For the most part, if you get there first, you get to make the call about how things go down -- well up, really -- forever. That's the way it works. First ascentionists have the say so over what happens. The bolts should be removed. Jun 8, 2011

rth
Salt Lake City

I disagree that the bolts should be removed. I have not climbed this yet and was just searching for something easy and simple yet awesome because its in LCC. I am a granite hound, some say snob because I rarely go to BCC. I like granite and would love to take my kids on some granite. I was searching for something fun, challenging and protected.

My view, if its a face climb, let there be bolts. If its a crack, let it be trad with chains at the top. By the previously stated rational, if I could send .14's I could go in search of <.10's free solo them and call it a day. Name the route, hose all that come after me. Thats not cool and it does nothing to perpetuate the great sport of climbing. I am not saying we should lace up the rock with bolts but really I can have just as much fun on a 7 as a 9.

PS its like there being a rule that I can't lace up a route with trad because the FA only used 5 pieces of pro, oh and no camalots, just nuts, because the FA only used nuts. 5 nuts remember, with short slings. Oct 10, 2014