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Bela Lugosi

5.12c, Sport, 65 ft (20 m),  Avg: 3.9 from 43 votes
FA: G. Rall
Oregon > Portland & The… > Broughton Bluff > (6) Bat Wall

Description

A super climb that involves extremely technical climbing, an explosive move up high, and a final exit into the "pod." Why it doesn't see more ascents is baffling, for it is one of the coolest climbs on the Bat Wall.
Starts just right of Dracula.

Location

Bat Wall

Protection

Well bolted sport route. (NEW BOLTS have replaced the old rusty bolts.)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Bela Lugosi to the left of the climber
[Hide Photo] Bela Lugosi to the left of the climber
Travis Melin setting up for the famed "karate chop" move of Bela Lugosi, off a mono and undercling crimp. November 2022
[Hide Photo] Travis Melin setting up for the famed "karate chop" move of Bela Lugosi, off a mono and undercling crimp. November 2022
Greg Lee on a casual TR burn up Bela Lugosi. November 2021
[Hide Photo] Greg Lee on a casual TR burn up Bela Lugosi. November 2021
Bela, Dracula and Frightnight
[Hide Photo] Bela, Dracula and Frightnight
Trying not to fall out of the pod of Bela Lugosi. November 2021. Photo credit to Patrick Cheng.
[Hide Photo] Trying not to fall out of the pod of Bela Lugosi. November 2021. Photo credit to Patrick Cheng.
Sean just finishing the first crux on Bela Lugosi
[Hide Photo] Sean just finishing the first crux on Bela Lugosi

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Micah Klesick
Charlotte, NC
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] For future reference, the bolts on this line (and the Dracula finish) have all been replaced with 1/2" bolts. Have at it with ease of mind. Feb 9, 2015
Micah Klesick
Charlotte, NC
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] TR'd this line yesterday, and WOW! I think it might get my vote for one of the best routes I've been on! Phenomenal movement, requires lots of power, crimping strength and excellent technique, as well as endurance, AND you get to finish off with the ever classic Dracula "pod" finish! Definitely my project for 2015! Feb 10, 2015
Dan Bookless
Bend, OR
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] Its bananas how good this line is! Favorite climb in the freaking Universe. Even if you climb 5.12- I would highly recommend trying to piece this one together. Cruxes are funky but not terribly difficult. Nov 13, 2019
[Hide Comment] Indeed an awesome climb, probably Gary's best. The blue line in the pic is the route, traversing into Dracula below that is not. Jan 9, 2020
Jordan Burgess
Portland, OR
[Hide Comment] New Sterling Rope PermaDraw has been placed on the bolt before entering the pod. If the old draw with the busted gate belonged to you, DM me and it's your's. Sep 6, 2021
Ryan Westby
Portland, OR
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] Three powerful, technical sections and then the Dracula pod. Brilliant line and my first 12c! Feels right as Dracula was my first 12a, 16 months prior. The ever-elusive pod gave me heck again for Bela even though I thought I had that section down.

Here's Patrick Cheng's send: youtu.be/2hgXR6MPm6c Jan 3, 2022
Jordan Burgess
Portland, OR
[Hide Comment] Nice send, Ryan. After watching the video you posted of Patrick Cheng's send, I was curious wether or not the no hands rest on Dracula was on route or not. I had always it assumed it was off route, but have at times wondered which parts of Dracula are actually on and which parts are off when climbing Bela.

I'm sure Dave Sowerby can clear this up for us. Jan 13, 2022
Ryan Westby
Portland, OR
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] Thanks Jordan! Here's the video of me on the route: youtu.be/gqNVIUBuAf0

That Dracula ledge is within a body-length of the Bela bolt line which is usually my measure of whether something's on-route or not (although I do believe entire routes are within body lengths at Bat Wall). There's also a rest I take at [3:20] in my vid that's at the equivalent height of the Dracula rest. I'll defer to others but given this and some of the other potential rests in that same area, I'm not sure the Dracula ledge changes the flow of Bela too much. Jan 17, 2022
Pat Cheng
Portland, OR
[Hide Comment] My ascent is probably not a "full send" whatever that means. I'm perfectly ok with that. It doesn't keep me up at night. Big ups to everyone who didn't use that ledge, including Ryan. Jan 23, 2022
[Hide Comment] Well thank you for that invite Jordan :-) Nice video of your send Ryan, a little sphincter pucker getting into the pod eh? As far as I can see, and remember, Ryan does it right. Left hand on some of Dracula's holds, body on the right. As long as you don't join Dracula at this point you're good :-) There are plenty of places on BL to shake out, as Ryan shows, it's not necessary to go left into Dracula.
  • * I would have had the first draw clipped, though. Rope drag is not a problem. A fall from 20ft onto one draw means you're one bent-gate away from broken bones. The base of Bat Wall is not very forgiving.
Feb 10, 2022