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Bela Lugosi
5.12c,
Sport, 65 ft (20 m),
Avg: 3.9 from 43
votes
FA: G. Rall
Oregon
> Portland & The…
> Broughton Bluff
> (6) Bat Wall
Description
A super climb that involves extremely technical climbing, an explosive move up high, and a final exit into the "pod." Why it doesn't see more ascents is baffling, for it is one of the coolest climbs on the Bat Wall.
Starts just right of Dracula.
Location
Bat Wall
Protection
Well bolted sport route. (NEW BOLTS have replaced the old rusty bolts.)
[Hide Photo] Bela Lugosi to the left of the climber
[Hide Photo] Travis Melin setting up for the famed "karate chop" move of Bela Lugosi, off a mono and undercling crimp. November 2022
[Hide Photo] Trying not to fall out of the pod of Bela Lugosi. November 2021. Photo credit to Patrick Cheng.
[Hide Photo] Sean just finishing the first crux on Bela Lugosi
Charlotte, NC
Charlotte, NC
Bend, OR
Portland, OR
Portland, OR
Here's Patrick Cheng's send: youtu.be/2hgXR6MPm6c Jan 3, 2022
Portland, OR
I'm sure Dave Sowerby can clear this up for us. Jan 13, 2022
Portland, OR
That Dracula ledge is within a body-length of the Bela bolt line which is usually my measure of whether something's on-route or not (although I do believe entire routes are within body lengths at Bat Wall). There's also a rest I take at [3:20] in my vid that's at the equivalent height of the Dracula rest. I'll defer to others but given this and some of the other potential rests in that same area, I'm not sure the Dracula ledge changes the flow of Bela too much. Jan 17, 2022
Portland, OR
- * I would have had the first draw clipped, though. Rope drag is not a problem. A fall from 20ft onto one draw means you're one bent-gate away from broken bones. The base of Bat Wall is not very forgiving.
Feb 10, 2022