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Routes in West Face, Center
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Beer T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Beernuts TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Broken Bit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Bumps T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Come and Get It T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Coming, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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D'oh! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Deflector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Donuts TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Excellent Smithers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Forsaken T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Going, The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Goldmember T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Kidney Stones T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Like a Virgin S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Lone Ranger, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Piss Easier T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Piss Easy (aka West Face of Medlicott) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Shagadelic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Slacker/Carrion T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Techno Tango T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m) |
| FA: | Jake Whittaker |
| Page Views: | 4,814 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | Salamanizer Ski on Aug 13, 2007 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Goldmember is an excellent slab route halfway up Medlicott Dome. We accessed it by climbing Piss Easy, but other approach options may exist.
Also, the supertopo guide notes that Jake Whittaker put it up freesolo (!) and that it was later bolted by a party unaware of the fact it had been climbed. The FA expressly gave permission for the bolts to remain, I'd like to thank him for that generousity, so that mere mortals like myself could enjoy this excellent route.
From the large belay ledge atop p2 of Piss Easy, follow the 4" wide golden dike that trends up and left on very polished and slick granite, surmounting a few small overlaps. Fun thin slab moves all the way to the top, with a couple mantels. End at a hole in the rock with two bolts equipped with rap anchors.
Descent: I think you are supposed to rap down and left 50' to the Shagadelic anchors, then do two double rope raps to the ground. We didn't know this, and tried to go straight to the p1 shagadelic rap anchors directly below on the big ledge. With 2 60m ropes, I came up 20' short, and had to down solo some 4th class, which was thankfully above a large ledge. Be aware! Then, double rope rap to the ground.
Also, the supertopo guide notes that Jake Whittaker put it up freesolo (!) and that it was later bolted by a party unaware of the fact it had been climbed. The FA expressly gave permission for the bolts to remain, I'd like to thank him for that generousity, so that mere mortals like myself could enjoy this excellent route.
From the large belay ledge atop p2 of Piss Easy, follow the 4" wide golden dike that trends up and left on very polished and slick granite, surmounting a few small overlaps. Fun thin slab moves all the way to the top, with a couple mantels. End at a hole in the rock with two bolts equipped with rap anchors.
Descent: I think you are supposed to rap down and left 50' to the Shagadelic anchors, then do two double rope raps to the ground. We didn't know this, and tried to go straight to the p1 shagadelic rap anchors directly below on the big ledge. With 2 60m ropes, I came up 20' short, and had to down solo some 4th class, which was thankfully above a large ledge. Be aware! Then, double rope rap to the ground.
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