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Pony Express

5.9, Trad, Sport, 115 ft (35 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 19 votes
FA: Jeff Giddings 1989
New Mexico > Taos Area > Tres Piedras > Beastie Alley
Warning Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Seasonal Raptor Nesting. DetailsDrop down

Description

A nice route to practice your slab skills. Run up to the first bolt, could get some pro in the crack below the first bolt. Continue up on increasingly difficult terrain clip the second and third bolt and pull the crux. Head up on easy rock to the 4th bolt, pull an easier crux and head to the rap anchors up and left.

Location

Just right of Beastie Alley, look for a slab with a first bolt about 20 ft up. Single rope rappel into Beastie Alley.

Protection

4 Bolts to Anchors, can place supplemental pro if wanted.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] reachy crux, high step on positive holds, for a slab. Sep 4, 2007
Jeff G
Colorado
[Hide Comment] FA: Jeff Giddings 1989.
Bolted on lead FWIW Jun 1, 2009
Matthias Lang
Albuquerque
  5.9
[Hide Comment] While most TP routes involve some slab climbing, this is the only 'pure' slab I tried here, and therefore pretty interesting, with a well protected slabby crux right after the third bolt. Sep 17, 2012
[Hide Comment] Thanks to the generosity of Shawn McCormack, the anchor has been replaced with two fixe SS bolts, hangers and descending ring. Also, the lead bolts have been replaced with fixe ss bolts and hangers. Apr 26, 2017
Jerry Cagle
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] Many thanks to Jeff Giddings for establishing this route...!

FWIW I: Super cool line. I really love this route, and I have done it several times in the past 20 or so years.

FWIW II: Some gear above B4 for the follower might (might) be advisable to prevent a king swing into the Beastie Alley crevasse in the event of an (unlikely) fall. Oct 26, 2024