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Thriller Off the Void

5.11b, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 3 from 45 votes
FA: FA (Top rope) Royal Robbins, Jim Sinclair 1971, FA Dave Lane 1978
International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Murrin Park > Sugarloaf
Warning Access Issue: Camping DetailsDrop down

Description

The Bourdon guide unaccountably designates this pleasant pitch a super classic. Far easier in the grade than the nearby Block and Tackle.

On the north side of Sugarloaf, climb left facing corner with a wide crack. Pull up onto the face and climb an 80+ degree face with some fingerlocks past three bolts; the crux moves between bolts two and three are pretty easy if you identify the footholds before launching into the sequence. Belay off the power tower.

Location

On the north side of Sugarloaf.

Protection

Three bolts, maybe and nut or two and a #3 and/or #4 Camalot for the start.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Thriller Off the Void Topo
[Hide Photo] Thriller Off the Void Topo
Thriller of the Void.
[Hide Photo] Thriller of the Void.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Colin Moorhead
Squamish, BC
[Hide Comment] Top roped by Royal Robbins, equipped and led by Dave Lane with two bolts, third lower "chicken bolt" added during retro bolting, this section protected adequately with a medium RP. May 8, 2010
[Hide Comment] I thought it was great. Definitely easier than block and tackle. It deserves 3 stars though, people are probably just blasting it because they fell at the crux and are butthurt. Sep 13, 2015
Robert Shortt
San Francisco, CA
  5.11-
[Hide Comment] Fun! The feet are all there for you on this one. Aug 20, 2019
Christopher Chu
San Francisco, CA
 
[Hide Comment] #2 camalot for the start. #5 optional as well. walk off the top or TR with a gear anchor.

great time. Aug 20, 2019
Adrian Suskauer
Vancouver, BC
 
[Hide Comment] For me, the 5 is verging on mandatory. The move it protects is a techy mantel that feels much better with the piece at your feet. You can also place a tight hands piece after the third bolt, but the climbing has eased significantly by that point. Great fun, get on it! May 19, 2023
[Hide Comment] This climb needs an anchor, people should not be anchoring off the power tower, as stated in the guidebook. Apart from that annoyance, it's a great climb! Aug 16, 2023