Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Primus

5.11a, Sport, 65 ft (20 m),  Avg: 3.3 from 102 votes
FA: Bryan Burdo & Dean Studer (1994)
Washington > Central-W Casca… > N Bend & Vicinity > Exit 38 > Mt Washington > Amazonia

Description

Climb through a low roof with mostly incut crimps and jugs. Get a rest at bolt 4 with some good hand jams and flat ledges. The crux for many is the next 3-4 bolts of climbing that has some small crimps on a steep face. The pump really starts to get ya. 

Location

Three routes to the left of the wet spot.

Protection

7 bolts, chain anchor with loweroffs.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Yellow: Primus <br> Red: Iguanarama <br> Blue: Laceration of the Soul (anchor is out of view)
[Hide Photo] Yellow: Primus Red: Iguanarama Blue: Laceration of the Soul (anchor is out of view)
Straight up between the two wet marks
[Hide Photo] Straight up between the two wet marks

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Garrett Waiss
Bainbridge Island, WA
 
[Hide Comment] The anchors have been replaced on 6/11/15. New stainless steel gear with quick links. You're welcome :)

BTW, the crux is not the roof move imho. I think that's just a super fun intro to the crux later... which is still cool. Better when it's not wet. Jun 16, 2015
Doug Hutchinson
Seattle/Eastrevy
 
[Hide Comment] This is the best route on the wall, and Les and I agree it is one of the best 11- at the Exits. Aug 22, 2021
Shawn S
Seattle WA
[Hide Comment] Braden rebolted this with glueins 10/23, such great work!
The bolt under the roof has been moved to a different location (slightly lower and inward), it is highly recommended climbers extend or back clean this bolt to minimize drag. Oct 24, 2022
Matt Holmes
Seattle, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Climbed through the first 5 bolts and then traversed left to Tropicana to avoid the wet rock on the upper part of Primus. Backcleaning bolts 1 and 5 on Primus allows for a decent linkup between the two routes. Both fun routes. Jun 25, 2024