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The Dobie Gillis Route

5.8, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 37 votes
FA: Steve Zich, Chris Marchase, Rey Decastro, 1988
Virginia > Shenandoah & NW… > Shenandoah NP > Old Rag > Skyline Wall (PATC Wall)

Description

Nice crack climbing to a bolt, then traverse to anchors. Fun route, bring tape.

Location

Find Waste Age, the tough-looking 50 foot bolted face. Dobie is just to the left, and ends by traversing right to the same anchors.

Protection

Std rack and 1 bolt.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Nearing the bolted anchor on The Dobie Gillis Route
[Hide Photo] Nearing the bolted anchor on The Dobie Gillis Route
Dobie Gillis. A rather notorious ascent which started out normal but ended up in Accidents in North American Mountaineering.
[Hide Photo] Dobie Gillis. A rather notorious ascent which started out normal but ended up in Accidents in North American Mountaineering.
Michael B with an icy send.
[Hide Photo] Michael B with an icy send.
Belaying Steve Carol onto the slab section
[Hide Photo] Belaying Steve Carol onto the slab section
First run on Dobie Gillis Route
[Hide Photo] First run on Dobie Gillis Route
First time on Dobie Gillis.
[Hide Photo] First time on Dobie Gillis.
Nick at the first bolt.
[Hide Photo] Nick at the first bolt.
Base of Dobie Gillis
[Hide Photo] Base of Dobie Gillis
view from the left of the route, cant see crack well, but can see line follows crack up to slab.
[Hide Photo] view from the left of the route, cant see crack well, but can see line follows crack up to slab.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

C Runyan
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] The ancient fixed pins at the anchor have been replaced with bolts. I believe the route's single bolt 3/4 the way has been replaced as well - it looks new and super solid, anyway.

Thanks to whoever took the time do make this popular climb much more safe. Oct 6, 2008
NickViator
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] It's fun to climb this route up to the bolts then bring some larger cams (1"-3" or so) to traverse right in the horizontal crack that continues right of the bolts. Jan 2, 2011
David Raines
 
[Hide Comment] Short route, but a little bit of everything -
- finger cracks
- hand cracks
- stemming and face moves
- slab finish

I'd say all 4 of those styles go around 5.8, so its a good challenge for a 5.8 leader. Just wish it was longer. Jul 3, 2013
Josh Rymer
Broomfield, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Anchors and bolt looking good as of 8/3/19 Aug 3, 2019
Will Alford
 
[Hide Comment] The anchors are solid, but the bolt is still the original bent aluminum hanger. Jun 9, 2021