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Routes in The Needle

Bustin' Move S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Damage Done, The S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Descent Route T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R
Momentary Lapse of Ethics S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Needle TR wall aka Uphill Slab TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
North Lieback T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
South Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Suburban Hangover S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Temple of the Dog S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: chipmunk
Page Views: 142 total, 1/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Aug 10, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is the line to the right of the Uphill Slabs aka TR wall. It is probably the easiest way to the top of the rock. Rossiter's guidebook rates it as 5.4. Gillett's guidebook rates it as 5.0. So, let's split the difference. It probably depends on exactly where you stop, since getting to the first set of chains is a bit easier/less exposed than getting to the top.

Start just to the right of the shallow, right-facing dihedral/crescent of the north face of the rock. Follow jugs up. Not much pro until about 30 feet up. Some cracks appear. There are chains about 60 feet up. There are also chains at the top of the rock. Note, these are set back a bit, so you get a bit of rope drag.

Probably, most important, this is not the best route for a small kid, since the holds are fairly well-spaced.

Location

This is on the North face of the rock, just to the right of a shallow, right-facing dihedral.

Protection

Light rack to at most a #3 Camalot.

Photos

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My mom used to rent a cabin near here for a week in the summer. When I was a freshman in high school and not a climber, I climbed this without a rope. I just kept going and just about shit myself near the top. I got to the top and realized I had no way of getting down. I saw some webbing at the top, for rappels and took it. Downclimbing wasn't easier and I never thought of how I would use the webbing for descent. I was happy to be on the ground! I have a piece of that webbing that I use for a bookmark now, as a reminder to not be a dumbass! Aug 20, 2010