Avg: 1.3 from 3 votes
Routes in The Needle
|Bustin' Move S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Damage Done, The S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Descent Route T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R|
|Momentary Lapse of Ethics S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Needle TR wall aka Uphill Slab TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|North Lieback T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|South Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Suburban Hangover S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Temple of the Dog S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c|
|Type:||Trad, TR, 70 ft|
|Page Views:||142 total, 1/month|
|Shared By:||Leo Paik on Aug 10, 2007|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is the line to the right of the Uphill Slabs aka TR wall. It is probably the easiest way to the top of the rock. Rossiter's guidebook rates it as 5.4. Gillett's guidebook rates it as 5.0. So, let's split the difference. It probably depends on exactly where you stop, since getting to the first set of chains is a bit easier/less exposed than getting to the top.
Start just to the right of the shallow, right-facing dihedral/crescent of the north face of the rock. Follow jugs up. Not much pro until about 30 feet up. Some cracks appear. There are chains about 60 feet up. There are also chains at the top of the rock. Note, these are set back a bit, so you get a bit of rope drag.
Probably, most important, this is not the best route for a small kid, since the holds are fairly well-spaced.
LocationThis is on the North face of the rock, just to the right of a shallow, right-facing dihedral.
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