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Routes in Aspen Alley

Analog Analogy T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blue Boy (aka Serendipity) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Digital Dilemma S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Gila Monster S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Staircase to the Patio T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnamed Crack Left of Zorro T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zorro T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Jeff Giddings ~1990
Page Views: 2,061 total, 16/month
Shared By: Mark Mathis on Aug 10, 2007
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

5.9 friction. Crux between bolts 2 and 3.

Location

On the face to the right of the right facing corner just to the right of Digital Dilemma. Lower or rap from anchors.

Protection

4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor w/ chains. Optional TCU placement in horizontal crack between bolts 3 and 4.

Photos

Chris Wenker
Santa Fe
  5.9
Chris Wenker   Santa Fe
  5.9
I recently learned, from an elder Tres Piedras climber, that back in the olden-days (before the bolt line went in), they used to climb a line in the area of Gila Monster that was led on gear.
Apparently it started a little to the right (basically the start of the 5.8 crack to the right) but then continued up the gray water streak, then traversed left along the horizontal/overlap (between current bolts 3&4), and then finished somewhere up to the left (up the crack or face, that wasn't clear). He didn't say how hard it was, but it sounds and looks bold.
It was proposed by my informant that this old line may have been the one called "Crack n' Friction" in the typewritten guide; but I have some doubts about that, because "Crack n' Friction" was supposed to be a 5.5.
There's at least two other cracks that may match the description of "Crack n' Friction" to the right of Zorro, maybe 30-50 feet farther right of there. Anyone know the actual location of this old Crack n' Friction line? May 7, 2009
Mark Mathis  
 
Thanks, Jeff! Fun route... Sep 7, 2007
Jeff G.
Fort Collins
 
Jeff G.   Fort Collins
 
FA: Jeff Giddings - circa 1990 Sep 6, 2007
tim naylor
  5.9+
tim naylor  
  5.9+
nice climb, with good rock. Sep 4, 2007