PRINT: Rock Climb Pillsbury, Foster Falls

Pillsbury

5.11a, Sport,

Avg: 3.4 from 182 votes
FA: Eddie Whittemore, Chris Watford - 1993
Tennessee > Foster Falls > 07. The Dihedrals

Access Issue: Daily online climbing registration required for TN State Park areas Details

Daily online climbing registration required for TN State Park areas. tnstateparks.com/activities…. This includes Cumberland Trail State Park (Deep Creek, Big Soddy, Buzzard Point, Laurel Falls, Dayton Pocket, Black Mountain and other areas within the park); South Cumberland State Park (Foster Falls and Denny Cove); Fall Creek Falls State Park; and Rocky Fork State Park Once you have registered, you will receive a confirmation email with your unique registration number, site rules, and other helpful info. Please keep the registration number with you while climbing. At some locations, you may be asked to leave a piece of paper with your registration number on your car dashboard. Groups of 10 or more, please call the park prior to filling out a registration.

Description

Follows a system of seams, then turns to slopers up high. The crux of the route seems to be moving from the clipping stance for the first bolt and establishing yourself on the wall.

Location

First route you come to when going past the left side of the left bunker. Starts on a big flake down low and moves to a ramp out left.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Smartly bolted—but don't fall clipping the 3rd bolt.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Fantastic climb!

wittle bity crimpers

more of the same

Streeetching to clip the first bolt

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Allie
the open road

Don't overlook this climb! It looks kind of so-so from the ground, but it's very enjoyable climbing! I'm short (5'2) and I found the second bolt a wee bit hard to clip. I definitely think the hardest part of the climb is getting established on the route, after that it's very consistent. There's great holds up top! enjoy! Apr 6, 2008

Elden Zen
originally da Bayou, now in…

As far as location goes, looks like there is a new route just left of the Left Bunker. Pillsbury may be considered the second route past the bunker. The new route feels more like a 5.9 Can anyone verify this? Jun 7, 2012

Kate Mittendorf
Nashville, TN

5.11a

Regarding the comment above, yes the route to the right of Pillsbury (first one coming from the bunker) is far easier. I would probably give it a 5.8 or 5.8+. Pillsbury is amazing! Very good for a smaller person's first 11. Jul 26, 2013

KALuttrell

First 11a onsite!! Fantastic route with somewhat tricky feet. Apr 4, 2016

Alex Godard

How many bolts are on this route? Jun 5, 2016

Arthur Wright
Washington, DC

5.11a

This route is great! For me, I definitely didn't find the hardest move to be getting established but I've got a pretty solid reach. Crux is probably moving to the good seam by the third bolt that you use to clip. Rest of it is sustained moves on positive crimps working to bigger holds where it gets steeper. Lots of fun and seems to have all safe falls after the 1st clip (unless you fall clipping the 3rd I assume) Mar 17, 2019

Elise Zheng
NYC

5.11a

Our group brought a stick clip up the ledge and clipped the 3rd bolt to figure out the moves without the deck potential. The moves are not hard and grading is fair, but finding holds and movements can be tricky for first-timers and new 5.11 leaders. Just make sure your first time is not screwed. Jan 2, 2023