Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Oh My God Dihedral

5.10c, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 3.8 from 63 votes
FA: Greg Collins, George Flam, John Mckigney, 1980
Virginia > Shenandoah & NW… > Shenandoah NP > Old Rag > Middle God's Area-Left

Description

A short "pitch" to belay at the base of the main corner, then up sweet laybacking butterscotch all the way to the top. Five star pitch.

Location

This is the easiest to find climb near the Reflector Oven; about ten minutes after leaving the ridge trail at the triple-trunk tree it will come into view on the left (due east) side of the draw. That doesn't make the approach any easier, but I guarantee it's worth it.

Protection

Cams from fingers to largest, you'll be pumped and appreciating the big guys at the top. Bolted anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Photo Credit: Stuart Webb
[Hide Photo] Photo Credit: Stuart Webb
OMG
[Hide Photo] OMG
OMG on a beautiful November afternoon
[Hide Photo] OMG on a beautiful November afternoon
Leslie Newman falling on Oh My God after reaching the top and grabbing a handful of snow! Circa 1984. Made it on second attempt.
[Hide Photo] Leslie Newman falling on Oh My God after reaching the top and grabbing a handful of snow! Circa 1984. Made it on second attempt.
Garry on OMG
[Hide Photo] Garry on OMG
Matt Wikswo at the end of the awesomeness/suffering that is the dihedral.
[Hide Photo] Matt Wikswo at the end of the awesomeness/suffering that is the dihedral.
A great picture of the route can be taken across the way from strawberry fields
[Hide Photo] A great picture of the route can be taken across the way from strawberry fields
Oh My God
[Hide Photo] Oh My God
Leslie Newman on Oh My God circa 1984.
[Hide Photo] Leslie Newman on Oh My God circa 1984.
Oh My God
[Hide Photo] Oh My God
Hutch on Oh My God Dihedral, Old Rag, Virginia, September 2007.
[Hide Photo] Hutch on Oh My God Dihedral, Old Rag, Virginia, September 2007.
Leslie Newman putting in some protection on Oh My God circa 1984.
[Hide Photo] Leslie Newman putting in some protection on Oh My God circa 1984.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Steve C
Missoula, MT
 
[Hide Comment] Anchors up top. Classic pitch on beautiful granite. The middle of the route can be jammed for a good 20 feet or so to ease the pump factor. Dec 3, 2007
Jesse Morehouse
CO
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] If youv'e ever looked over at this crack from Strawberry Fields you will know why its called "Oh My God!" Dihedral. Super climbing!

On the East of the descent gully at about the same elevation as Strawberry Fields. Jun 6, 2008
Ross Swanson
Pinewood Springs
 
[Hide Comment] In the 80's the name was "Oh My God Corner" Jul 25, 2009
Ed Wade
Hermann, MO
 
[Hide Comment] Best to approach this climb from above so you don't have to haul or carry your pack. I don,t know of a fixed anchor, but its been 10 years since the last time I climbed this route, but I used to rig a gear anchor and rap to the base of the corner. Rack up from .5 camalot to #4. A #1 camalot works well for the exit move after the desperate wideness. One of the best climbs on Earth. Well worth the hike. Do Strawberry, Bushwack, and this climb for a stellar day you won't forget. FYI this climb gets sun in the afternoon so save it for the end of the day during the winter. Aug 19, 2012
DennisL
Bishop, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Great great line. The key for me was hand-jamming and stemming my feet out wide for almost the entire line - you'd have to be outrageously strong to layback from start to finish.

I used singles from .75 to #5, doubles of #3. Was very glad to have the #5 up at the top.

Slinging the small trees/putting in a cam for a bottom anchor is a good idea. Nov 11, 2013
Garrett Hennig
Manassas, VA
[Hide Comment] Both of the anchor hangars spin and the bolt shanks are rusted. It felt like there were a couple thousanths of an inch free play between the bolt and the rock. I rapped off them anyway but clenched the whole way down. Apr 16, 2018
T C
Bozeman, MT
  5.10
[Hide Comment] The anchors could use some love but still work. Nov 23, 2018
Mitchell Goldman
Moran, WY
[Hide Comment] The bolted anchor was upgraded to 1/2” stainless steel 5 piece bolts and double ring rap hangers on 11/28/19. Nov 29, 2019
Spencer C
Arlington
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] This may be among the best pitches of any grade in the East. A test-climb that will take you through nearly all the sizes in a gently-overhanging dihedral. Dec 7, 2019
Leonardo Viotti
Washington. DC
 
[Hide Comment] Approach beta: getting to the base using the trail isn't obvious as it involves some chimney scrambling. After that, to get to the belay ledge you have to climb ~3m crack (rated 5.6 according to the guidebook). Easy, but at the cliff edge so I do not regret roping up for it.

Gear beta: camalots from .75 to 5 in order! I doubled down on a few sizes, but my partner literally placed one of each more or less equally spaced until the end. Sep 20, 2021
Rob Jarvis
[Hide Comment] Does anyone have beta for approaching this from the top to setup tr anchors? Jan 18, 2023
Aaron Gusler
Harrisonburg, VA
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] My lead attempt on this beautiful beast cost me some skin. For me, the biggest challenge was finding solid stances to place gear. There are good feet for stemming throughout, but finding them can be difficult during an onsight attempt. The layback moves feel ridiculously good and the rock is beautiful. Top anchors look great as of 3/30/24. A true 4 star route! Apr 1, 2024