Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Herb Laegar, Eve Laegar, Patrick Paul, Rich Smith, November 1982
Page Views: 845 total · 6/month
Shared By: Russ Walling on Aug 9, 2007
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

21 Opinions

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This turned out to be a really good route. Interesting moves, bomber pro, and good rock. It is like a cross between Super Roof and Moosedog Tower.

Climb the approach crack and lob in some med cams or a giant stopper or two. Get up under the roof and sink the bomber pro (2.5" cam) and suss out the roof moves. Get established in the roof and plant a 4" cam into the roof. Move right onto the face and after a couple of easy moves you are at a belay spot up and left of the roof crack.

Belay takes stuff in the 2" to 3" range and don't let your rope get stuck in the roof crack.

Descend over the top and down to climbers left via an easy scramble. Follow the worn rock.


Standard gear to 4".


Mark L  
Did this on TR and it is dirty. Interesting move around the overhang but dirty/chossy and wouldnt be a confident lead. The top is face and you can run it out on probably 5.9 face or go right around the side and get a hand crack. Apr 30, 2007
Ryan Kelly
Ryan Kelly   work.
I think this is an overlooked climb. Still a bit of roughness at the start, but would clean up nicely with more ascents. Pulling across the roof is good fun, goes easier than it looks. Oct 8, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Clean up some? The route is nearly 30 years old! Maybe on the 1/2 century mark it will lose the choss factor? Not that I've done it but that last comment was too hysterical to not reply to. Oct 23, 2010
Newport Beach
Donno   Newport Beach
I just did it and it wasn't chossy at all. Good pro - fun route. Nov 15, 2010
Russ Walling
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
No idea what Mark L is talking about up there.
It is not dirty or chossy, and there is no face at the top. Anyway...I'd go 2.5 stars on this one. Dec 6, 2012
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Clean fun is what this route is. Quite possibly the best route on the wall. When watching Russ plug his big meats into that the crack above it occurred to me, it may be too wide for me; he sunk #4 Camalot in the thing after all. To my pleasant surprise there was no need for fancy footwork or struggle at the top, turns out the crack chokes down making a perfect cupped hand placement even for the ladies.

I love hidden Josh gems.............. Dec 6, 2012
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
very fun roof. able to anchor with one BD 0.75 and one 1, plus the 4 that could be walked the whole way up the roof and backcleaned to add to the anchor, if that helps to pare down the rack Dec 19, 2015
Bill M
Berkeley, CA
Bill M   Berkeley, CA
Hidden gem for sure! Had a great time on this route. Definitely a non-trivial walk off the way i went (climbers left). I almost fractured my hip tumbling down the backside... Feb 3, 2017