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Arete Route (Left end of the wall)
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
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Routes in Hainstadt (Breuberg)
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Arete Route (Left end of the wall) S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fantasia/Phantasiaverschneidung S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fingertaub S,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Joe Sprays S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Schuppe S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tax Free S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Zeller Turm S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 49.8386, 9.0396 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 635 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Braxton Norwood on Aug 9, 2007 |
| Admins: | Shawn Heath |
Description
The good news is this route is right by a smooth stump that is perfect for holding your beer(s). The bad news is whoever bolted this may have been deaf, blind, and impotent. In other words: the bolting on this route blows.
The first bolt is too high to protect an awkward throw to a sloper (you may deck onto the beer stump if you miss). Bolt 3? (the one just above the fatty ledge) is less than 1m above the ledge and too low to adequately protect the crux.
BETA SPOILER WARNING:
There are two ways to do the crux:
1. Dyno from the ledge & small pocket (fun, but harder than 10-)
2. From the ledge, climb up and left to the adjacent route's bolt (don't clip it unless you really enjoy rope drag), then traverse right to get back on the route (9+/10-).
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