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5.12a/b, Sport, 45 ft,
Avg: 3 from 32 votes
FA: Peavey, Wilhelmi, Gibson
Colorado > Ft Collins > Poudre Canyon > Palace > Chamber
Thin is the name of the game on this balancy route. Start on some big holds that are fairly reachy then move to the thin stuff.
The crux comes about in the middle off of teeny tiny crimps to a balancy slopping side pull/undercling. Then to more reasonably small crimps.
Did I mention the food work? Bring that too. Good feet are few and far between. Tricky and fun route.
Go up to the top of the Chamber. It's the fifth to the last bolted route, and it is right of
(the route that's covered in green rock).
7 bolts to two anchors with chains.
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Randy finishing up the easier moves on Small Fry.
Small Fry and Green Lantern
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Fort Collins, CO
Great route! Great for a first 5.12-, yay! It is definitely thin in the middle. Just like the description says, use the sloper sidepull and then onto thin crimps. The foot holds here are non-existent, so you have to be creative. I found stemming out to the left helped a bit, and by stem it's almost a split. Once you pull through the move, there's a thank god hold right above you. Then pull in all your glory to the chains!
Aug 29, 2012
Fun! My first 5.12 (TR). My fingers are still throbbing, so I'll make this short. I took a slight variation from the sloping sidepull and instead found an awesome crimper a foot away, directly left of that hold.
Aug 29, 2012