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Small Fry

5.12a/b, Sport, 45 ft,  Avg: 3 from 32 votes
FA: Peavey, Wilhelmi, Gibson
Colorado > Ft Collins > Poudre Canyon > Palace > Chamber

Description

Thin is the name of the game on this balancy route. Start on some big holds that are fairly reachy then move to the thin stuff.

The crux comes about in the middle off of teeny tiny crimps to a balancy slopping side pull/undercling. Then to more reasonably small crimps.

Did I mention the food work? Bring that too. Good feet are few and far between. Tricky and fun route.

Location

Go up to the top of the Chamber. It's the fifth to the last bolted route, and it is right of Green Lantern (the route that's covered in green rock).

Protection

7 bolts to two anchors with chains.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Randy finishing up the easier moves on Small Fry.
[Hide Photo] Randy finishing up the easier moves on Small Fry.
Sam cruxing.
[Hide Photo] Sam cruxing.
Small Fry and Green Lantern
[Hide Photo] Small Fry and Green Lantern

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Nat T.
Fort Collins, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Great route! Great for a first 5.12-, yay! It is definitely thin in the middle. Just like the description says, use the sloper sidepull and then onto thin crimps. The foot holds here are non-existent, so you have to be creative. I found stemming out to the left helped a bit, and by stem it's almost a split. Once you pull through the move, there's a thank god hold right above you. Then pull in all your glory to the chains! Aug 29, 2012
Katy90
Flagstaff, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] Fun! My first 5.12 (TR). My fingers are still throbbing, so I'll make this short. I took a slight variation from the sloping sidepull and instead found an awesome crimper a foot away, directly left of that hold. Aug 29, 2012