Type: Sport, Alpine, 800 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: FA: James Garrett and Troy Anderson 4 August 2007 FFA and route prep assistance: Glen Kaplan
Page Views: 4,108 total · 30/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Aug 7, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Some of you will note that this route seems to often have some C0 ratings to the pitches. It will be freed for certain. We didn't spend much time trying to free the individual moves....so you can get up it even if you aren't proficient at 5.11+++ choss! The young and the brave need to get after it! This is a bolted alpine climb.

Pitch #1: This starts directly on the prow of the Pillar. This may be the poorest quality rock on the route, but still it held some memorable moments for me! Follow the 9 bolts to the 3 bolt belay. Belay under a roof. 40m, 5.9 A0 or 5.11+!

Pitch #2: Some thin moves up and right through about 3 overlaps passing about 10 bolts to a great ledge and belay. Wild climbing! 5.9+ A0 or 5.11++. 30m.

Pitch #3: Climb the steep finger crack to a loose ledge (tag line) and then climb two more steep steps to the protected belay. 30m, 5.10.

Pitch #4: One of the best pitches on the route. Traverse left to a prominent Arete with good rock and excellent position. About 13 bolts bring you to the belay ledge. 40m, 5.9 A0 or 5.11+.

Pitch #5: Another tag lines gets the climber to pass the chossy ledge easier and remaining on the main aspect of the buttress, continue to the belay ledge. This pitch was drilled on lead. 35m, 5.7, 7 bolts.

Pitch #6: A nice pitch with good rock and very fine face climbing. 9 bolts. 30m. 5.9.

Pitch #7: Drilled on lead, follow the fun hand crack to the top. 25m, 5.7.

Thanks also to Tyler Phillips and Luke Douglas for humping loads to the top to initially check it out.


Up the Prow of the North Pillar of Timp. Photos will follow and eventually be the best beta for finding the start and the route. Rappelling the route should be possible with a 70m rope utilizing the tag lines on the ledges, however, taking two ropes is probably recommended for most parties. Wear Helmets and don't go there if you don't have one. Even though you are in American Fork Canyon, don't expect American Fork rock quality, because we didn't spend that much time to clean the route as one does for a 60 footer in AF.


I drilled this route from the top, and although others each contributed a day of help cleaning, I spent 7 days cleaning, brushing, and drilling. It may never be as clean as some of you may hope. It will always remain an adventure route. Consequently, I decided to install as much safety features (read bolts and tag lines)as possible to compensate for the alpine flavor (read looseness and choss). Sorry, some of us may do our best in choss! If you have a taste for the dirty side of life, perhaps you have Lecherous Leanings!
All bolts. 2-3 bolts at each belay/rappel station. About 60 bolts were installed. Most belay stations are in protected areas.
Fixed tag lines facilitate passing the loose scree ledges and were installed at other's suggestions.
14 QDs and several long slings.
James Garrett
James Garrett  
TDA (but thanks for getting after it together) is exaggerating a wee bit....it shouldn't be considered that dangerous....certainly in light of the excellent protection and the position of the belays....IMO anyway. We'll have to wait to see what Craig Martin has to say...he'll dig it. Limestone probably similar to pre 90's Black Streak. Pretty certain Glen will be able to free it if that is the goal. Aug 7, 2007
glen kaplan
Salt Lake City, UT
glen kaplan   Salt Lake City, UT
well...we freed it, but it certainly wasn't a 'redpoint'...here's the story (shortened for web posting of course):
p1:Drew doesn't even get past the 1st bolt before he pulls off a garbage-can sized rock and takes a whipper right back to the ground!!! decides he likes it and attacks first pitch like a parky bare-knuckles champ!!! trundles some more, campuses the .10+ stuff, and makes it safely to belay#1
p2:i climb directly above the belay up to the crux (bolts 4-7), manage to kind of reach over to the crux clip (bolt 4) w/o actually committing to the moves...i go for it...kinda...key holds (i.e. the whole left hand crack/hanging block thingy) give a little...i suck ass and decides to take! (justified by: you pretty much whip right onto your belayer!!!)...climb from bolt to bolt through crux...get lowered and frees it at what i think is at least 11+ (i.e. way harder than Medussa, plus its scary and loose! and f*cking exposed!!!)
p3: oh yeah...this is a joke pitch also...starts off great, w/ a sharp finger crack .10+ to awkward and dirty .11a mantel, then travels through shite (w/tag line) past 3 more bolts to belay
p4: "The Murder Pitch", great climbing, .11a or .11b technical crux (i pulled off a hold and took a scary swinging 15footer into air), .10+ consistent climbing for the rest, long (~16 bolts), scary (i.e. the murder pitch), exposed, steep, great
p5: "The Joke Pitch", loosest stuff ever, great knife ridge exposure, finally get a speck of sun! loosest stuff ever!!!
p6: "The 5.9 pitch", some looseness (w/ tag line) to pretty awesome face climbing through steep, solid rock, with loose, funky, but exciting mantel to anchors (solid 5.9)
p7: "the bolted hand crack pitch", summit pitch, pretty good climbing on o.k. rock to the right and ticking time bomb rock to the left, a couple of great limestone hand jams, exciting and dicey finish to the "Lame Anchor" which is the final belay/rap
scramble a few feet up the ridge, turn around and enjoy the rare view of the wasatch!!!! Aug 11, 2007
glen kaplan
Salt Lake City, UT
glen kaplan   Salt Lake City, UT
i couldn't get rid of the C0 rating on the site...but it goes all free! hard and scary, but free...

4 full rope raps gets you to the ground (i.e. double ropes needed)
7 to 5, 5 to 4, 4 to 2, 2 to ground

please, since i don't want to go do this again, pick up my Scarpa Minimas sz 11 1/2 at the base...i forgot them...that's 2 pairs of shoes in 3 months!!!i lost a pair in yosemite at the top of the reg. route!!! and now i forgot a pair at the base of the pillar!!! ahhhhh.....

oh yeah...this is definitely worth doing if you don't mind the choss and are looking for adventure... (i.e. stay away if you routinely epic on multi-pitch climbs in LCC or BCC!!!)

although I still felt like someone had a gun to my head all day :) Aug 11, 2007
James Garrett
James Garrett  
Just some history about the "lame anchor". My heart sunk when I noticed it from the top when we first went there to investigate. We used it and later backed it up to other solid rock up high. Good now. As we rapped in we looked all over for signs of a route and found none. We felt assured that someone had placed this top anchor ("lame") and then after checking out a pitch from there decided to scrap plans. I am quite sure the route had not been climbed and I don't want to be blamed for this final "lame" anchor. I don't even know who puts in anchors like that, so any info would be appreciated. Hope this route starts seeing some traffic. It will clean up quick. Aug 12, 2007
Salt Lake City, UT
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
So is this climb down off the N. ridge of the North Peak of Timp? When I was hiking that side back in August, I remember seeing some "fairly" good looking walls. Hmmm... If so, I knew somebody had to be climbing in there. Looks like there's room for more..? Jan 9, 2008
James Garrett
James Garrett  
Definitely.....what you say is very true. Jan 14, 2008
Haha, wow. Great write-up, photos, and comments. It's pages like this that make MP so awesome. I'll be looking to get on this route this summer/fall, that is if I can convince anyone to do it with me (sure as hell won't be pointing them to this page, hahaha) Aug 3, 2008
Broseph L
Salt Lake City, UT
Broseph L   Salt Lake City, UT
I am proud to add this climb to my tick list today! One thing, on the fifth pitch, there is a stray bolt about 30 feet up and left from the bottom of the arete, not sure why it's there, but don't go for that, you will find a bolt on the arete, I was confused for a while with this. Anyone know why that stray bolt is there? Oct 3, 2012
Rad climb should see more ascents. Unfortunately, we didn't send the second pitch, a hold broke and I fell, pulled back on and went to the top. Here is a more current pitch by pitch break down. Thought I would update the pitch by pitch beta, since it has been 10 years from the first ascent. Much of the route has likely cleaned up a lot by now, but it is still in alpine choss and loose rock style.

Pitch #1 (5.10a): Mostly 5.8-9 loose blocky climbing with a single 5.10a section which is closely bolted.

Pitch #2 (5.11a): Pretty solid rock some loose and chossy rock up higher up towards the top. Crux is at about the third bolt, big move leads to good holds with poor feet (5.11a). after getting established in a dihedral after the crux is a difficult bulge to pull over (5.10). Easy climbing leads you to the anchors(5.8).

Pitch #3 (5.7 A0): Aided up to the hand line then easy climbing on loose rocks and ledges to next anchors.

Pitch #4 (5.10d): Very chossy traverse(Scariest part for me) moving up left till you get to the arete. Pulling around the arete is the crux(5.10+). Loose blocky climbing leads you to the main arete (5.10-). Solid rock on the arete and in the dihedral leads you to the chains (5.8).

Pitch #5 (5.6): Loose rock along the ridge leads you on top of some bushes(5.4). Then established on the very chossy and loose ledge (5.6 Easy, but very loose rock). easy climbing up the ledges/arete leads you to the anchors(5.5)

Pitch #6 (5.9): Probably the most solid rock on the route. Loose scramble with the tag line leads you to the base. Climb slab up to the anchors(5.9).

Pitch #7 (5.7): Another loose scramble up the tag line to the base of the climbing. Establish yourself on a separated pillar, then cruxy move getting into the hand crack(5.7). Follow the hand crack to the anchors(5.6).

DESCENT: Rappel the route with one 70m. We brought 2 ropes but thought it would be wiser to rappel the route with one. There are a lot of loose rocks that may fall on you when pulling the rope, and many places for the rope to get stuck.

Hope you enjoy the route! Took us a little less then 5 hours car to car. Jun 29, 2017
I'm not seeing much in term of approach beta. Best guess from your pictures is to drive to Timpooneke Campground and hike from there. Is that right? Jan 3, 2018
James Garrett
James Garrett  
See where the Subaru is parked on the picture, that is quite a ways past the campground making the approach quite short. During the snow months, however, yes the approach would be much longer. A winter Ascent would be quite an adventure. Let us know how it goes!;) Jan 4, 2018