Avg: 2.5 from 4 votes
|Type:||Sport, Alpine, 800 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||FA: James Garrett and Troy Anderson 4 August 2007 FFA and route prep assistance: Glen Kaplan|
|Page Views:||3,846 total, 31/month|
|Shared By:||James Garrett on Aug 7, 2007|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionSome of you will note that this route seems to often have some C0 ratings to the pitches. It will be freed for certain. We didn't spend much time trying to free the individual moves....so you can get up it even if you aren't proficient at 5.11+++ choss! The young and the brave need to get after it! This is a bolted alpine climb.
Pitch #1: This starts directly on the prow of the Pillar. This may be the poorest quality rock on the route, but still it held some memorable moments for me! Follow the 9 bolts to the 3 bolt belay. Belay under a roof. 40m, 5.9 A0 or 5.11+!
Pitch #2: Some thin moves up and right through about 3 overlaps passing about 10 bolts to a great ledge and belay. Wild climbing! 5.9+ A0 or 5.11++. 30m.
Pitch #3: Climb the steep finger crack to a loose ledge (tag line) and then climb two more steep steps to the protected belay. 30m, 5.10.
Pitch #4: One of the best pitches on the route. Traverse left to a prominent Arete with good rock and excellent position. About 13 bolts bring you to the belay ledge. 40m, 5.9 A0 or 5.11+.
Pitch #5: Another tag lines gets the climber to pass the chossy ledge easier and remaining on the main aspect of the buttress, continue to the belay ledge. This pitch was drilled on lead. 35m, 5.7, 7 bolts.
Pitch #6: A nice pitch with good rock and very fine face climbing. 9 bolts. 30m. 5.9.
Pitch #7: Drilled on lead, follow the fun hand crack to the top. 25m, 5.7.
Thanks also to Tyler Phillips and Luke Douglas for humping loads to the top to initially check it out.
LocationUp the Prow of the North Pillar of Timp. Photos will follow and eventually be the best beta for finding the start and the route. Rappelling the route should be possible with a 70m rope utilizing the tag lines on the ledges, however, taking two ropes is probably recommended for most parties. Wear Helmets and don't go there if you don't have one. Even though you are in American Fork Canyon, don't expect American Fork rock quality, because we didn't spend that much time to clean the route as one does for a 60 footer in AF.
ProtectionI drilled this route from the top, and although others each contributed a day of help cleaning, I spent 7 days cleaning, brushing, and drilling. It may never be as clean as some of you may hope. It will always remain an adventure route. Consequently, I decided to install as much safety features (read bolts and tag lines)as possible to compensate for the alpine flavor (read looseness and choss). Sorry, some of us may do our best in choss! If you have a taste for the dirty side of life, perhaps you have Lecherous Leanings!
All bolts. 2-3 bolts at each belay/rappel station. About 60 bolts were installed. Most belay stations are in protected areas.
Fixed tag lines facilitate passing the loose scree ledges and were installed at other's suggestions.
14 QDs and several long slings.