Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 10 pitches, Grade III
FA: Coliver, Keller, Waller, Lichtman - August 1966
Page Views: 2,935 total · 20/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Aug 6, 2007
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Another one of those High Sierra east faces which doesn't gets done much - but it's a good outing, especially the last 2 pitches which are pretty physco. The last pitch is very memorable.

P1 (5.7) Loose crack off sloping ledge.
P2 (5.7) Shallow groove, heading rightwards.
P3 (5.4) Easy climbing over loose blocks to sandy ledges.
P4 (5.4) Up chimney behind blocks and around the corner - good stuff.
P5 (5.6) Up easy slabs and cracks - fun.
P6 (5.4) Up rib, then right, easy.
P7 (5.4) Easy loose section right then up steps to platform.
P8 (5.6) Up cracks and big flakes to base of left-facing dihedral splitting the Headwall.
P9 (5.8) Good climbing up steep corner 'till beneath the roof then pull onto a cool, exposed little ledge and wonder why you ever came. Small wires and cams for belay.
P10 (5.9 crux) On the left, awkward and exposed up and over into the final crack - which is sustained all the way to a step left and toe traverse just below the summit.

Location

Left of 2 sloping ledges on the NE face.

Protection

Standard rack with large cams for last pitch, ice-axe seasonal.

Photos