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Routes in Feather Peak

Feather Couloir (North Couloir) AI2
North Ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Northeast Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southeast Slope T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 10 pitches, Grade III
FA: Coliver, Keller, Waller, Lichtman - August 1966
Page Views: 2,621 total, 21/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Aug 6, 2007
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Another one of those High Sierra east faces which doesn't gets done much - but it's a good outing, especially the last 2 pitches which are pretty physco. The last pitch is very memorable.

P1 (5.7) Loose crack off sloping ledge.
P2 (5.7) Shallow groove, heading rightwards.
P3 (5.4) Easy climbing over loose blocks to sandy ledges.
P4 (5.4) Up chimney behind blocks and around the corner - good stuff.
P5 (5.6) Up easy slabs and cracks - fun.
P6 (5.4) Up rib, then right, easy.
P7 (5.4) Easy loose section right then up steps to platform.
P8 (5.6) Up cracks and big flakes to base of left-facing dihedral splitting the Headwall.
P9 (5.8) Good climbing up steep corner 'till beneath the roof then pull onto a cool, exposed little ledge and wonder why you ever came. Small wires and cams for belay.
P10 (5.9 crux) On the left, awkward and exposed up and over into the final crack - which is sustained all the way to a step left and toe traverse just below the summit.

Location

Left of 2 sloping ledges on the NE face.

Protection

Standard rack with large cams for last pitch, ice-axe seasonal.

Photos

Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
 
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
 
If the post above is a more direct start - sounds good. As I think my party started too far to the left. Thanks for the advice on the dangerous loose second to last pitch - I seem to remember that, but it was 20 years ago. I do remember being very nervous with the anchor at the top of that pitch and urging my partner, who led the last pitch to get bomber pro as soon as possible. Jun 4, 2015
md3
md3  
I was on this in 2012 and the dangerous next to last pitch was really scary then with huge thin flakes/formations that you could easily pull off (onto your self or belayer). I recall having to use them a little to climb - not sure if a better climber could avoid touching them. Has anyone been on it since Supert and are conditions the same? Jun 4, 2015
supert  
Start below black water streak
P1 Climb through small roof
P2 Stay L of detached block
P9 (5.9) Steep, very loose rock, leaning pillars, hollow columns, dangerous
P10 (5.10a) Spectacular, exposed, hands - off width crack
Descent gully between Royce and Feather; stay left. Sand covered glacial ice, with loose rock. Recommend rappel vs down climb Sep 4, 2013