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Routes in Elephant's Head

Middle Variant T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Top Rope Routes on "North"/"West" Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trunk - Right Variant, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Trunk, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
left variant T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,845 total · 14/month
Shared By: Casey Bald on Aug 5, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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Start on "steps" to the left of the pine tree 10ft up. Moving up the right hand side of the obvious arete splitting the cliff, follow cracks and corners up the line of least resistance, finishing on the cracks on the left. Gear Anchor 5.4-5.5 For a spicier variation stay as proper to the arete as you can (5.7+)

[Admnin's NOTE: This variation may ??? be "The Ear" [ 30 ft , 5.7 ] as listed in Webster...."climb a thin vertical crack in the center of the face". It is also possible that this line is listed as "the Eye" in other guide(s). ]


standard trad rack


Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
AGREE ! The cracks at the top of "The Trunk" are incredibly super bomber with medium-to-large cams or nuts so there's no need of bolts there! It's not like CT areas where climbers have to go 25-30 ft back from the cliff face(s) to get trees for anchors, at the cost of much vegetation loss.

Now, as for the existing bolts at the top of the "northwest" face (used for TR-ing a few nearly protection-less nice climbs), ONE of those is really quite old, rusty, lose, and the rock it's placed into is now HOLLOW SOUNDING. It can be backed up with TCU's or nuts. (The other bolt, a 1/2", appears bomber and is abou 4-5 ft from the questionable bolt.) Mar 30, 2015
I dont really feel like its so much of an issue to place bolts for top anchors on this route, for the left variant there is a bomber 1/2 inch bolt with a rap link to get down. The trunk has a perfect crack for gear at the top of the route. This is a very popular view point with a low commitment hike to the top for tourists sets of bolt anchors detract from the natural feel of the top of the notch. Jun 4, 2010
as anyone put bolts in yet???? i was thinking about getting a two bolt anchor in at the top of the trunk and then a backup next to the huge ring anchor Mar 23, 2010
Fred Keith
Portsmouth & North Conway, NH
Fred Keith   Portsmouth & North Conway, NH
There are some bolts at the top that are good enough to rap off. I think this would be a good place for IMCS or some of the local guide community to put 2 sets of summit-bolts because of use. One set at the top of the Trunk route and one set at the top of the cheek. This way the second set would be good for TRs and a rap to packs. Feb 5, 2009
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
A really nice easy climb. The walk off is harder than the route-any rap bolts yet ? Jul 12, 2008