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Routes in Darby Canyon

Chubby Rain S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Deep Dark Hole S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Happy, Happy, Happy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route O ("Red" Route) S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Samsonite S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stemming for Dollars S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Swedish Chest Thrust S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Velvet Elvis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wango Tango S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Olsen Brothers
Page Views: 88 total, 1/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Aug 4, 2007
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

Thuggy, fun climbing - different and more powerful than the slab climbs near by. Crux is off the ground and clipping the first bolt. The second bolt is oddly placed, and requires an extra move left to clip. After that, straight up to big holds, and then left to the third bolt. Continue straight up big holds and past another both to the anchor.

Location

About 40 feet right of where the approach trail hits the wall. Steep, somewhat shattered appearing rock at the bottom with some big huecos above. The anchor is quite a ways down from the top.

Protection

6 bolts to bolted anchor.

Photos

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Sam Miller
salt lake city, UT
 
Sam Miller   salt lake city, UT
 
This is actually route 9 from the "Sweet Spots" book by Jerry Painter and Matt TeNgaio. This route is actually a pretty stout .11d (almost .12a in my opinion), but definitely harder than .11a. Super good. Thuggy start is a good description. Weird placement for second bolt. I didn't even clip it. Aug 17, 2012