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Routes in Feather Peak

Feather Couloir (North Couloir) AI2
North Ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Northeast Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southeast Slope T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
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Type: Trad, Alpine, Grade II
FA: Chris Owen and Fred Batliner July 1992
Page Views: 1,826 total · 13/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Aug 4, 2007
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

To my knowledge this spectacular ridge has never been climbed direct.

Start on the west side of the ridge, then cross over to the east side and negotiate an awkward chimney. Airy ridge climbing leads to Tower 1 pass this on the east. Stay on the east to Tower 2, to a tricky spot passing under several overhanging blocks and descending into the gully between 2 and 3. Then pass around the buttress which forms Tower 3. Once past 3 climb up the loose gully to the notch to the right of the small tower (3.5) between 3 and 4. Go down and cross under 3.5 (sand or seasonal snow), and head up to the buttress of Tower 4, a ledge leads across this to an easy gully up to the gap just before the main summit block (top of Feather Couloir). A 5.4 pitch leads up the headwall to the summit.

About 6 hours.

Location

Start at the Col north of the ridge.

Protection

Small passive rack.

Photos

Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.4
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.4
Would have had pictures but left the camera on the back side of Tower 4, it's probably still there. Mar 27, 2009
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
Ooooh, ouch about the camera. Done stuff like that myself. Dropped my approach shoes from 4 pitches up in New Hampshire once, had to walk out....oh, never mind, we all know about this stuff. Oct 14, 2014
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.4
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.4
Direct in this case would mean taking every tower head on and climbing it all the way to the summit of Feather Peak. Fred and I skirted each one around its base. Jun 8, 2015
Owen David
Los Angeles, Ca
Owen David   Los Angeles, Ca
Is this an old school 5.4? How would you compare to LPP route finding technical cruxes? Aug 17, 2018
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.4
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.4
Technically easier than LPP. Route finding more challenging but we didn't have any beta at all - just took the path of least resistance. Aug 17, 2018

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