Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Winds of Fire

5.10a, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3.6 from 400 votes
FA: Scott Unice
Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > American Fork C… > Hard Rock
Warning Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area DetailsDrop down

Description

A long, mostly not-quite-vertical route on pockets and jugs, with two small roofs to pull through.

The rock is mostly solid, although there are hollow-sounding areas throughout most of the route. The psychological crux is the first, slightly intimidating roof (and that's probably the technical crux as well).

All in all, a fun climb, and long for a single-pitch sport route.

Take care while lowering or rappelling as a 60m rope is just barely long enough (with no stretch).

Location

Continue past the south face of Hard Rock for a couple of hundred feet. Winds of Fire is on a columnar-looking prow topped by a pointed roof.

Protection

10 bolts to double ring rap anchors with quicklinks. Actually, there are two sets of anchors: the rap anchors mentioned and some older chains above those.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

22 [[106003242]] 5.10
[Hide Photo] 22 Winds of Fire 5.10
Rapping off Winds of Fire.
[Hide Photo] Rapping off Winds of Fire.
Winds of Fire
[Hide Photo] Winds of Fire
Willardstyle on the top moves of Winds Of Fire 5.10a
[Hide Photo] Willardstyle on the top moves of Winds Of Fire 5.10a
Good ol' Winds of Fire.
[Hide Photo] Good ol' Winds of Fire.
Picture of Winds of Fire from belayer's POV.
[Hide Photo] Picture of Winds of Fire from belayer's POV.
Lucas working Winds of Fire
[Hide Photo] Lucas working Winds of Fire
Winds of Fire (5.10a) 8/2020
[Hide Photo] Winds of Fire (5.10a) 8/2020
Tricky. Sustained exposed climbing.
[Hide Photo] Tricky. Sustained exposed climbing.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] I thought this route's difficulty was probably more like 5.9, but it is in the Ruckman guide at 5.10...call it easy 5.10. Aug 4, 2007
jtwalter
Orem, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Rappelling this route is a good idea. There is some serious rope drag at the top and bottom if you lower off. Sep 24, 2007
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] For what it's worth, I'll note that one of my partners, who is a stronger sport climber than I, told me he thought this route is .10d. I think he's up in the night, but one more opinion can't hurt, right? Oct 28, 2007
Kip H
Farmington, utah
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] This is a fabulous climb with lots to do on it. the roofs are the cruxes. pull them on small edges with tricky feet way off the ground. i'll say its 10c. Nov 13, 2007
[Hide Comment] This is a great route. There is some stemming, pockets, crimps, roofs, etc. The exposure is great as is the view from the top. Climb efficiently in the beginning because it just keeps going. Jun 15, 2008
Alec L
  5.10
[Hide Comment] Classic -- best .10a in the canyon. There are some interesting routefinding problems; for the onsight it'll likely be harder than 10a. Awesome feature with the business right at the top. Get on it! Jun 16, 2008
Bad Sock Puppet
  5.10a/b
[Hide Comment] Hardest 10a I've been on in AF, it certainly makes the 10a to the west feel like a 5.9. The rock is much more featured than a lot of the surrounding walls and thus hides the holds quite well. I really enjoyed this route since it's different from most other AF routes. Yes there are occasional pockets as always, but there are a lot of crimps, flakes, and sketchy feet as well. The variety is great, especially with the several small roofs to pull over. The first half is nothing special, but the last half definitely makes this one worth it. Jun 7, 2009
Tanner Wise
  5.10b/c
[Hide Comment] one of my favorite 10's in the canyon! the length, the variety, the rock quality, and the exposure made this climb awesome. I put it at around 5.10b/c May 26, 2011
bmdhacks
Bellingham, WA
5.10b
[Hide Comment] If you extend your anchor to hang down below the prow, you'll get zero rope drag on toprope and lowering. It's only a foot or two below the chains and has line-of-sight to the belayer. Bring a bit of cordelette and you'll be fine. Oct 4, 2012
Tim G.
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] One of the best 5.10's in the Wasatch for sure! A must do. I think 10a is spot on. None of the moves are particularly hard, but it is long for a sport route. I thought Punch the Clock (10a) and Treehugger (10b) around the corner were both harder than this. There was a lot of rope drag by the time I got to the top. Some long runners in the right spots would have probably helped. Jun 11, 2013
jeff p Pfeiffer
Golden
  5.10a PG13
[Hide Comment] TOP 10 10a's of my life. it has exposure and length and views and a couple cool moves. Near hands free rests all the way up so you can really soak it in. The only tricky section for me was just over the mini roof, but with out that move it might not be 10a. Super classic and a confidence builder for the grade. Mar 13, 2015
Matthew Swett
Big Sky, MT
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Led this for the first time immediately after leading Vaporous Apparition for the first time, and personally think Winds of Fire is way more fun and actually has an easier (or at least more confidence inspiring) crux. Lots of fun moves with great pockets,cool exposure, better than average protection and a crux that definitely had me scratching my head. Also, beautiful rock, lots of calcite crystals tucked away inside many of the finger pockets and on the face of the rock near the uppper section. Definitely a new favorite, DO IT!! May 25, 2015
AJ Cohen
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] I pulled the roof on the right side and stuck right-hand arete... I found this very hard! Left looked do-able and maybe that's the correct way to do it... because the way I did it was definitely harder than .10a Jun 22, 2019
Brant Rudd
North Salt Lake, UT
[Hide Comment] Go right at the very top. The chains are around the corner on the right side of the pillar. Sep 6, 2020
Chris Stocking
SLC, UT
  5.10a/b
[Hide Comment] Crux move is maybe .10b, but there's a fantastic, no-hands rest right before it, so I'd still probably call it 10a. Definitely extend your draw on the first bolt (would also recommend extending the bolt below the first roof), or you'll run into some bad drag by the top. Sep 15, 2020
Tyler Fisher
Albany
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] This is my favorite 5.10 — don't miss it if you're at this crag already Nov 14, 2021
Erin
Sherman Oaks, CA
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] So much variety on this route! Long and Exposed with really only one crux section in my opinion (especially if you're breaking into the grade on lead, trust your feet). There are a lot of different ways to approach the climb so I think it works for just about any climber!! MUST DO! Get on it and don't forget to take a picture from the anchors!
The first bolt is pretty high - but easy climbing to get up there - stick clip will keep you safe if you're nervous about it. Nov 4, 2022
[Hide Comment] Mediocre route. Platinum Blonde is better. Nov 10, 2022
[Hide Comment] All lead and anchor bolts have been replaced by the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA) with FIXE 1/2 glue-in bolts. Please consider donating to the SLCA for future anchor replacement projects.

To Donate: secure.squarespace.com/chec…

Project Recap: saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…

Submit an Anchor Observation: saltlakeclimbers.org/fixed-… Dec 22, 2023