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Euro Trash

5.10b, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 248 votes
FA: Charlie Kardaleff
Wyoming > Ten Sleep Canyon > French Cattle R… > Sector Shinto
Access Issue: No New Route Development & Existing Route Impacts. Details

Description

Fun airy climbing on this line. Well bolted - so if the look of the line scares you - don't worry give 'er a go. Carefully climb the start avoiding rodent dung as you pass the initial corner. Find the best way to traverse left into the airy arete. Search for the best holds on nice solid swiss cheese limestone. Fun climbing all the way to the chains eases as the angle recedes. Grade is debatable - given 10d in the guidebook.

Location

Located at the far left side of sector Shinto on the left prow - both Eurotrash girl and Werewolves in London (10b/c) start in the same corner, with WIL going up and right, while Eurotrash girl heads up towards the wide crack before traversing out left to the arete.

Protection

12 bolts to anchors. Bring some longer draws to cut down on rope drag.

Anchors replaced with ASCA 1/2" SS Powerbolts and Climbtech Hooks by the Bighorn Anchor Initiative (BAI)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Photo by Phillip
[Hide Photo] Photo by Phillip
Euro Trash
[Hide Photo] Euro Trash
Euro-Trash Girl
[Hide Photo] Euro-Trash Girl
Euro Trash Girl starts in the gray corner, then moves past the wide crack to eventually gain the prominent arete.
[Hide Photo] Euro Trash Girl starts in the gray corner, then moves past the wide crack to eventually gain the prominent arete.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jclimb
Moab, UT
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Seems like a convoluted line - trying to force the climber onto the arete when the seemingly obvious line just goes up the face? Either way, good warmup I guess. Jul 24, 2010
Christian Rinker
Lander and Riverton, Wyoming(
  5.10+ PG13
[Hide Comment] Hey ok..the point of slimbing is to challenge your self out of ur norm and to try something other then the obviouse route. This route is a great warm up for a long day on the shinto wall and a day in the french cattle ranch area. Great confidence builder for people first time to the 10-11 grade level. Dont let the first mini bulge, and the awsome built in crux on the second bulge scare, Oh and watch out for the bat guano. Aug 5, 2010
Dan Brayack
Marmet, WV
 
[Hide Comment] Awesome route! I didn't clip the bolt in the traverse, it was a bit low, but no one ever got hurt with there being tooooo many bolts. I love it thanks!! Jul 9, 2012
Eric Kozera
Livingston, MT
 
[Hide Comment] My first climb at Ten Sleep... Long, and full of good pockets. Good route. Aug 9, 2015
Daniel Nelson
Jackson, WY
 
[Hide Comment] Aesthetic, with great exposure on the upper half. Yes, the traverse bolt is a little awkward, but I don't think it takes away from the fun-factor of the route. Highly recommended. Aug 11, 2015
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.10b/c
[Hide Comment] The line itself does seem contrived, but it links all the best holds and the best movement up across this face. Absolute fabulous fun. CLIP! DON'T SKIP! Sep 9, 2015
Emerson Takahashi
Casper, WY
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] One of my favorite warmups in FCR. Steep throughout the entire climb with fun, giant holds everywhere. Long runners will help keep the rope from zig-zagging too much Mar 3, 2017