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Sport, 80 ft (24 m),
Avg: 2.8 from 248
FA: Charlie Kardaleff
> Ten Sleep Canyon
> French Cattle R…
> Sector Shinto
Access Issue: No New Route Development & Existing Route Impacts.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Fun airy climbing on this line. Well bolted - so if the look of the line scares you - don't worry give 'er a go. Carefully climb the start avoiding rodent dung as you pass the initial corner. Find the best way to traverse left into the airy arete. Search for the best holds on nice solid swiss cheese limestone. Fun climbing all the way to the chains eases as the angle recedes. Grade is debatable - given 10d in the guidebook.
Located at the far left side of sector Shinto on the left prow - both Eurotrash girl and Werewolves in London (10b/c) start in the same corner, with WIL going up and right, while Eurotrash girl heads up towards the wide crack before traversing out left to the arete.
12 bolts to anchors. Bring some longer draws to cut down on rope drag.
Anchors replaced with ASCA 1/2" SS Powerbolts and Climbtech Hooks by the Bighorn Anchor Initiative (BAI)