Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Charlie Kardaleff
Page Views: 2,415 total · 17/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Aug 3, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


171 Opinions

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Description

Fun airy climbing on this line. Well bolted - so if the look of the line scares you - don't worry give 'er a go. Carefully climb the start avoiding rodent dung as you pass the initial corner. Find the best way to traverse left into the airy arete. Search for the best holds on nice solid swiss cheese limestone. Fun climbing all the way to the chains eases as the angle recedes. Grade is debatable - given 10d in the guidebook.

Location

Located at the far left side of sector Shinto on the left prow - both Eurotrash girl and Werewolves in London (10b/c) start in the same corner, with WIL going up and right, while Eurotrash girl heads up towards the wide crack before traversing out left to the arete.

Protection

12 bolts to anchors. Bring some longer draws to cut down on rope drag.

Anchors replaced with ASCA 1/2" SS Powerbolts and Climbtech Hooks by the Bighorn Anchor Initiative (BAI)

Photos

Jclimb
Moab, UT
  5.10b
Jclimb   Moab, UT
  5.10b
Seems like a convoluted line - trying to force the climber onto the arete when the seemingly obvious line just goes up the face? Either way, good warmup I guess. Jul 24, 2010
Christian Rinker
Lander and Riverton, Wyoming(
  5.10+ PG13
Christian Rinker   Lander and Riverton, Wyoming(
  5.10+ PG13
Hey ok..the point of slimbing is to challenge your self out of ur norm and to try something other then the obviouse route. This route is a great warm up for a long day on the shinto wall and a day in the french cattle ranch area. Great confidence builder for people first time to the 10-11 grade level. Dont let the first mini bulge, and the awsome built in crux on the second bulge scare, Oh and watch out for the bat guano. Aug 5, 2010
Dan Brayack
Marmet, WV
 
Dan Brayack   Marmet, WV
 
Awesome route! I didn't clip the bolt in the traverse, it was a bit low, but no one ever got hurt with there being tooooo many bolts. I love it thanks!! Jul 9, 2012
Eric Kozera
Wisconsin/ Livingston, MT
 
Eric Kozera   Wisconsin/ Livingston, MT
 
My first climb at Ten Sleep... Long, and full of good pockets. Good route. Aug 9, 2015
Daniel Nelson
Jackson, WY
 
Daniel Nelson   Jackson, WY
 
Aesthetic, with great exposure on the upper half. Yes, the traverse bolt is a little awkward, but I don't think it takes away from the fun-factor of the route. Highly recommended. Aug 11, 2015
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.10b/c
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.10b/c
The line itself does seem contrived, but it links all the best holds and the best movement up across this face. Absolute fabulous fun. CLIP! DON'T SKIP! Sep 9, 2015
Emerson Takahashi
Casper, WY
  5.10b
Emerson Takahashi   Casper, WY
  5.10b
One of my favorite warmups in FCR. Steep throughout the entire climb with fun, giant holds everywhere. Long runners will help keep the rope from zig-zagging too much Mar 3, 2017