All Locations > Washington > Central-W Casca… > N Bend & Vicinity > Exit 38 > Deception Crags > Write-off Rock

Knife in the Toaster

Name: Knife in the Toaster
Rating: 1.8

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British

Routes in Write-off Rock

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bottoms Up S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Bu the Rabbit TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Crotchety Old Men S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Flammable Pajamas S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Knife in the Toaster S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Legacy Bolt S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Mom There's Pink in my Burger S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

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Type:	Sport, TR, 50 ft (15 m)
FA:	Bryan Burdo
Page Views:	2,217 total · 13/month
Shared By:	alpineH on Aug 1, 2007 · Updates
Admins:	Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

A short route with a crux at the very end. A few standard Write-off moves to the low-angle area with the giant bolt, then steeper climbing with smooth feet to a horizontal crack. Trust those edges and grab something over the top to clip the anchors.

Location

In the center of Write-off Rock, to the left of the brown streak.

Protection

5 bolts. The two-bolt anchor has chains - one set of chains with a steel lowering carabiner on each one, and an extra set of chains for using your own gear. Neither are really equalized though, both are fairly uneven, so it's hard to see what the point is.